21.07.2019
Midrange gaming wheel Archives
midrange gaming wheel Archives
The best racing wheels for PC and consoles in 2020
The best racing wheels are, self-defined. The top dogs for steering and racing whatever your platform. Thanks to the way driving is embedded in our collective unconscious, we know by instinct when we approach one that turning left means going left, and so on. This makes the best racing wheels so intuitive. There’s more to racing than going left, however, and all good racing wheels can accommodate turning right too. Across the best racing wheels, you’ll also find premium features such as force feedback: motors that resist your attempts to wrestle the car around corners, realistically portraying the reluctance of racers to depart from a straight line.
Such features, along with arrays of pedals to take the complexity of braking and gear changes away from your already overloaded fingers, increase the realism of the experience and help you to shave the fractions of a second off your lap times that can mean the difference between the winner and a loser.
These are the best wheels to slap in front of one of the best gaming TVs, as some of these wheels aren’t exactly lap-sized. If you’ve got enough space, there’s nothing to stop you from building a racing setup that’ll be the envy of racers from miles around. We’ve also broken them down by console: these are the best PS4 steering wheels, and these are the best Xbox One steering wheels.
There's a bit of stock fluctuation about at the moment, too, which might cause a bit of a pain but our deal-finding software will bring up the latest offers from the major retailers and point you in the right direction.
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Best racing wheels for gaming
1. Logitech G923 steering wheel & pedals
Probably the best value-for-money set-up on the market
Rotation: 900° | Buttons: 16 | Pedals: 3 | Adjustable Pedals: No
More affordable than direct competitors
G Hub Software is brilliant
TrueForce only compatible with four games
No handbrake input and stick shift not included
Logitech has been in the steering wheel industry for around two decades now and as gaming technology has improved, so has the quality of their wheels. The G923 is a direct successor to both the Xbox-focused G920, and the PS version, the G29 - both of which were compatible with PC. Now we've just got one device sold in two variants - again both of which are compatible with PC - and boy oh boy is it a corker.
Steering wheels are typically aimed at either entry-level players looking to dip their toes in the water of sim racing, or hardcore racers who have been doing this for some time now and the G923 caters for both brilliantly. The G923 also offers perhaps the most immersion you'll get from any wheel on the market thanks to the new TrueForce technology, while still keeping the price point below the upmarket costs. A price of £350/$400 is still steep if you're new to the scene, but it's less than its direct competitors and is one of the best when it comes to performance. It's well-built with premium stitching around the leather, looks sleek with your set-up, and is the closest you can get to experience what it's like to actually be behind the wheel of a supercar/F1 car/rally car without leaving the comfort of your desk - or forking out some serious money for a full sim-rig set-up. If you've got the cash, the G923 is a beautiful bit of kit, and a must-have if you don't already own a similar product.
This is one of the best racing wheels for the serious racing game enthusiast. It incorporates high-quality force feedback so powerful, hitting a wall at the wrong angle could potentially hurt your thumbs. There is a downside to all this motorised resistance, and that’s the fan that ejects hot air from the top of the unit, right out the top of the unit, so after a while you may smell the hot air which is a bit off-putting.
In track racers like GT Sport, F1 2018 or Project CARS 2, as you can really feel the sensation of grip via the superb motorised feedback, and the speed of response to your inputs is superb. It’s precise, weighty and really shakes when the game demands it, making a rally game like WRC 6 feel so much more involving.
The only real problem the wheel has is that the handbrake is inevitably mapped to a button you access with your thumb, making rally games fiddly. You can buy a separate stick shift and use that as the handbrake with the paddles for changing gear, but that isn’t ideal. The wheel is often upside-down during rally stages, so you’ll have to compromise between handbrake and stick shifting somewhere. Still, handbrake aside, this is arguably the perfect when for the serious gamer, and gets my recommendation.
3. Thrustmaster TMX Force Feedback Racing Wheel
A great budget racing wheel
Compatible with: Xbox One/PC | Connection type: USB | Weight: 0.998kg | Force Feedback: Yes | Rumble: Yes | Maximum rotation angle: 900 degrees | Pedals included: Yes | Clutch pedal: No | Expandable: Yes
Comparatively lightweight pedals
Feedback effect not as strong as the TX base
There’s absolutely no question that force feedback makes a huge difference to how fun a racing game is. Having the wheel push against your hands with varying degrees of resistance when you crash or steer gives you a realistic feel, and even evokes memories of arcade coin-op racers like Daytona USA. But the technology is expensive, meaning you need to be serious before buying… or at least you did. Thrustmaster has produced a cut-down, but still impressive force feedback wheel as an entry level purchase and it’s very desirable indeed.
The pedals included are plasticky, and offer little resistance, and don’t include a clutch pedal either. However they can be swapped out for a better compatible set if you decide to upgrade later on. The steering wheel is similarly low-cost, and nowhere near as deluxe-feeling as the high-end units’ interchangeable wheels.
And that force feedback? It’s not as strong as the other bases, but it does work. If you’re on a tight budget, this product provides a true force feedback wheel with 900 degrees of rotation and a set of pedals for your money, which is pretty darn awesome.
4. Logitech G29 Driving Force Racing Wheel
Simply the best racing wheel for sims
Compatible with: PS4/PS3/PC | Connection type: USB | Weight: 8kg | Force Feedback: Yes | Rumble: Yes | Maximum rotation angle: 900 degrees | Pedals included: Yes | Clutch pedal: Yes | Expandable: Yes
Designed to work with PS4 specifically
Extra controls for TCS and ABS on the wheel itself
Louder mechanism than the G27 that preceded it
Stick shift not included, unlike its predecessor
An excellent wheel from Logitech, the G29 replaces the incredibly popular G27 wheel from previous generation PlayStations. The unit is designed specifically for PlayStation 4 gaming, and as such features additional buttons over the Xbox equivalent G920, namely a click wheel for adjusting brake balances on the fly, and positive/negative buttons for adjusting traction control (or whatever you map it to).
Also new for this unit are coloured LEDs at the top of the steering wheel’s central column, which light up to tell you when it’s time to change gear (if supported by the game). The pedals are responsive and the brake pedal is non-linear, giving you a more realistic braking sensation than cheaper pedal sets.
This is an excellent wheel for any PlayStation 4 gamer. It’s a pity the stick shifter is no longer built into the unit, but it isn’t massively expensive to buy it bundled-in on Amazon. This is undoubtedly one of the best ways to get the full driving experience in your home.
5. Logitech G920 Driving Force
A smooth, responsive wheel with great force feedback
Compatible with: Xbox One/PC | Connection type: USB | Weight: 7.21kg | Force Feedback: Yes | Rumble: Yes | Maximum rotation angle: 1080 degrees | Pedals included: Yes | Clutch pedal: No | Expandable: Yes
Wonderfully smooth steering action
Brake pedal may be too stiff for some tastes
Games that require the hand brake are fiddly
This Xbox One wheel is super-smooth and feels superb to drive. It’s ergonomic (though keep in mind that any wheel will make unaccustomed hands sore after a few hours) and pleasantly slimline, while retaining a good, solid feel.
Aside from the same handbrake-as-a-button problem as the Thrustmaster offerings, a unique area of consternation is the pedals. The unit we tried features an unusually stiff brake pedal, requiring immense pressure to get the brakes to engage. Reviews on Amazon suggest other people have the same criticism – something that isn’t true of the PS4 equivalent G29. You can usually reassign the brakes to the clutch pedal (which is included as standard on this wheel), but that’s not ideal if you’re a serious racing fan. Things are improved somewhat if you mount the pedals properly on a racing seat or on non-slip flooring like carpet, but it really shouldn’t be quite so stiff.
Brakes aside, this is an otherwise exemplary force feedback steering wheel and one that will make any racing game more enjoyable… if not necessarily easier to play.
View Full Version : [Good wheel settings in here] Wheel Users, what's your experience?
Just like the title says Id like to know how you guys with wheels are handling the game. I have the crew and a t300rs (PS4) but haven't played the game yet. Are you guys finding it doable or are you switching to controllers / m&kb? Are you able to keep up with races? Post your experiences. Hopefully we can all assist each other.
Yes. I would especially like to know if you can look left/right using the dpad on the T300rs (PS4). If it hasn't been fixed, I may pass.
I use G27 on PC. takes time to get used to but it is bareable
Horrible! I also have the T300 and it is so bad (compared to Driveclub). BUT, I expect that it is due to settings. So I need to try out some different ways. Any tips are appreciated.
The main problem I had was steering. Nothin happened when I turned the wheel. solved by setting steering linearity to the far right. Now it's ok. The force feedback is immense, powerful and quite jerky. I had to pull it down to may be 40%.
I plan to post my settings when I get home once I find something that is drivable. Hopefully It won't be as bad once the cars level up more since they supposedly handle better at that point.
Force feedback needs some improvement. It's kind of lacking the details you need to fully push the cars to their limits. When I spin, it's not really clear what caused it. I think this game really deserves some better force feedback and wheel support. Because I'm enjoying some of these races, but I need to hold back to avoid the weird stuff from happening. Also the wheel feels really light in the center, maybe fixable with some of the settings...
I have the G27 and I have one serious complaint. Each time you shift gears the engine makes a revving sound, even when I shift with manual clutch, I hate it.
Secondly, it's abit dissapointing to see that the car doesnt stall when you stop your car and keep the clutch pedal depressed. This also means you don't have to play with the clutch and gas pedal to get the car going again, it's automated :(
Third thing, the steering wheel feels very light when going down a straight road, but the FFB does work and I like the feel of it so far. But I haven't fiddled with the settings yet.
But overall it feels pretty good, but I have only played for 30 minutes so far.
EDIT: I have one more problem, the leds on my G27 that indicate when I need to shift gears, the first green light turns on when I start the game and they stay on, even when I close The Crew.
Secondly, it's abit dissapointing to see that the car doesnt stall when you stop your car and keep the clutch pedal depressed. This also means you don't have to play with the clutch and gas pedal to get the car going again, it's automated :(
Third thing, the steering wheel feels very light when going down a straight road, but the FFB does work and I like the feel of it so far. But I haven't fiddled with the settings yet.
But overall it feels pretty good, but I have only played for 30 minutes so far.
EDIT: I have one more problem, the leds on my G27 that indicate when I need to shift gears, the first green light turns on when I start the game and they stay on, even when I close The Crew.
I hate the force feedback, all the way up (DFGT) it twitches so hard but all the way down it is so light on the wheel. can only turn wheel 90 degrees and you cant revert to default settings if you mess something up. i doub't theyll fix this but i hope someone posts some good settings.
Simply the worst game i've played since i've a g27...shame on ubisoft. this was my last game from these ***holes.
Simply the worst game i've played since i've a g27...shame on ubisoft. this was my last game from these ***holes.
Theres a person in the handling thread who said he's having a great time with his G27. I've asked him to come in here and post his settings. There has to be a combination that can make the game enjoyable at least. I'm still at work so I have yet to play it.
Theres a person in the handling thread who said he's having a great time with his G27. I've asked him to come in here and post his settings. There has to be a combination that can make the game enjoyable at least. I'm still at work so I have yet to play it.
Not enjoying the experience with G27 at all, its the opposite from smooth. Nothing in the center and then full attack after a few degrees, and its very "jaggedy"... like when turning abit the wheel kicks back with a short burst of FFB and when you are going offroad omg... it sounds like a flippergame is going off inside the wheel.
Ive tryed fixing what i can in logitech profiler and tryed without and only ingame settings... not happy.
Atm I feel forced to have a really weak FFB because it just feels like im working against the wheel, not with it... if that makes sense. Hmm, I guess it feels abit like my wheel is broken (it isnt)
Really hope they improve this in a near future
Ive tryed fixing what i can in logitech profiler and tryed without and only ingame settings... not happy.
Atm I feel forced to have a really weak FFB because it just feels like im working against the wheel, not with it... if that makes sense. Hmm, I guess it feels abit like my wheel is broken (it isnt)
Really hope they improve this in a near future
Really hoping that guy will post his settings. Have a rough first experience with the G27. The beginning with the raptor was horrendous. Wheel smack back and forth was unbearable. I turned the FFB back to like 60% but it's still kinda rough.
im using DFGT it took 1 hr to setting up the wheel but it worth it . in logitech profiler i setted centering sprint 95 . in game lower the ffb set sensevity high and lower it 2 levels and lower the steering dead zone 3 - 4 levels
And now I start to hate it...
I have spent the last couple of hours trying to get my G27 to work again. For some reason it won't.
The degrees of rotation is stuck to 180 for some reason. I can set it to 900 in control panel and it stays at 900, but in game it's stuck at 180. The FFB also refuses to work sometimes, the centering force is at a constant 100%, eventhough I can still drive ingame. So I haven't progressed a single mission since the prologue, frustrating:mad:
I have spent the last couple of hours trying to get my G27 to work again. For some reason it won't.
The degrees of rotation is stuck to 180 for some reason. I can set it to 900 in control panel and it stays at 900, but in game it's stuck at 180. The FFB also refuses to work sometimes, the centering force is at a constant 100%, eventhough I can still drive ingame. So I haven't progressed a single mission since the prologue, frustrating:mad:
Really hoping that guy will post his settings. Have a rough first experience with the G27. The beginning with the raptor was horrendous. Wheel smack back and forth was unbearable. I turned the FFB back to like 60% but it's still kinda rough.
I agree, at first I was certain that something was terribly wrong. On read and after tweaking some settings its better...
I agree, at first I was certain that something was terribly wrong. On read and after tweaking some settings its better...
Just like the title says Id like to know how you guys with wheels are handling the game. I have the crew and a t300rs (PS4) but haven't played the game yet. Are you guys finding it doable or are you switching to controllers / m&kb? Are you able to keep up with races? Post your experiences. Hopefully we can all assist each other.plz fix it wanna play._.._.._
Sounds like there are a few bugs to get worked out...not too surprising.
I enjoy the G27, i limit the wheel rotation to 299 in the logitech profiler.
Then in-game i set the Steering Sensivity to max(The one in controls settings), and set the "Car handling help level" to hardcore. That's what i did and it feels so much better ^.^
If you don't like the 299 wheel rotation you can always adjust it to your liking, and the same goes for everything else :-)
Then in-game i set the Steering Sensivity to max(The one in controls settings), and set the "Car handling help level" to hardcore. That's what i did and it feels so much better ^.^
If you don't like the 299 wheel rotation you can always adjust it to your liking, and the same goes for everything else :-)
The force feed back and wheel support in The Crew seems to be in flux at the moment. My personal experience with two different wheels were less than satisfactory. Starting with the g25, the game was unable to see the wheel. Some buttons worked but some didnt. Menu navigation was not working and the game acts as if it is a regular controller with the Force Feedback slider greyed out.
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
I've only got a few hours in-game so far, but with a G27 I've gotten it to a nice spot. The FFB is definitely whacky but after tweaking I think I got it decent.
In-game the FFB is set to ~1/8 to 1/4 on the bar, it gets rid of the massive jerking and still has the rough surface bumping. Steering/Pedals are all 45deg lines (set deadzone/max and it should sort itself out) and that gets rid of the sudden surges of power from a non 1:1 curve.
In the Logitech Profiler I use 100% on everything and 360deg Rotation. !!WARNING!! If you want to use more than the in-game 180-200 degree rotation do NOT tick the "Allow game to adjust settings". Leave that unticked and the game will simply use what you set in the Profiler. The in-car camera won't reflect this, but the tires will.
I use 'Hardcore' handling though I haven't tested other modes to see how that affects things.
Overall, it's not DiRT 2 levels of FFB (pure perfection) but it's good enough to still be enjoyable. The FFB needs to be smoothed is the biggest thing, going off-road shouldn't jerk the wheel from 0 to 100% Force constantly. I would also wish for a better deadzone selection since small movements cause too much reaction, but I'm getting use to what we have (using 360+ degree helps compensate).
In-game the FFB is set to ~1/8 to 1/4 on the bar, it gets rid of the massive jerking and still has the rough surface bumping. Steering/Pedals are all 45deg lines (set deadzone/max and it should sort itself out) and that gets rid of the sudden surges of power from a non 1:1 curve.
In the Logitech Profiler I use 100% on everything and 360deg Rotation. !!WARNING!! If you want to use more than the in-game 180-200 degree rotation do NOT tick the "Allow game to adjust settings". Leave that unticked and the game will simply use what you set in the Profiler. The in-car camera won't reflect this, but the tires will.
I use 'Hardcore' handling though I haven't tested other modes to see how that affects things.
Overall, it's not DiRT 2 levels of FFB (pure perfection) but it's good enough to still be enjoyable. The FFB needs to be smoothed is the biggest thing, going off-road shouldn't jerk the wheel from 0 to 100% Force constantly. I would also wish for a better deadzone selection since small movements cause too much reaction, but I'm getting use to what we have (using 360+ degree helps compensate).
Okay just started playing with my T300RS. The force feedback is way to strong and I have it set to just above the minimum. Right now it feels like I'm driving with a non FFB wheel. For my settings (PS4) I have the steering linearity at max and the dead zone at the min. It is drivable but not how good Driveclub feels.
Started out with H shifter plus clutch. Turned clutch off after I found out it's useless to have on. Switched to paddles after finding out that several cars have seven gears. Turned FFB down a few notches eventually, but it feels unnatural at times.
That being said, it isn't horrible. Just needs some work.
That being said, it isn't horrible. Just needs some work.
I have fanatec gt2, my xbox recognize the wheel, but in the crew i cant shift, i cant use clutch, i cant use H-Shifter it seems like the pad settings are inside the wheel, need a fix for this
Sorry for my english
Sorry for my english
iv been playing the crew since the first pc beta n played everyone til launch from pc to ps4, from g25 to thrustmaster t300rs updating a ongoing post yet only know are people see that the t300 had issues.... i was told, by mod, thrustmaster this would be fixed and yet id try to let the masses know but only know do they see ...This is a pist with every update iv added from beta one to launch
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/965574-the-CREW-PS4-THRUSTMASTER-T300rs-FROM-(-every-)-BETA-TO-LAUNCH-(-mods-please-read-)
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/965574-the-CREW-PS4-THRUSTMASTER-T300rs-FROM-(-every-)-BETA-TO-LAUNCH-(-mods-please-read-)
This needs to be fixed asap as I don't have a controller nor will buy one just for this game, this game is unplayable the car spins out in the middle of a straight a way with just the slight touch of the wheel. Force feedback for the G27 is a joke it has no road feel to it, and it feels like I'm driving on black ice while using a G27..
it works awesome for me, I'm using a Fanatec CSR, feels realistic too on hardcore mode
it works awesome for me, I'm using a Fanatec CSR, feels realistic too on hardcore mode
I have it feeling great with a g25 which should be identical to the g27 ! No more loose feeling in the straights, no more jerky feedback and 900 degrees. In the Logitech profiler under the global force feedback settings you must uncheck Allow game to control settings and set to 900 degrees if you want. What got it right for me was to crank the Force Feedback in game right full but turn it down in the logitech profiler under the global device settings, I like it as low at 55 percent. I feel everything in the road, it's no longer spastic and I feel slip during understeer as well now. Pretty happy !.
I have it feeling great with a g25 which should be identical to the g27 ! No more loose feeling in the straights, no more jerky feedback and 900 degrees. In the Logitech profiler under the global force feedback settings you must uncheck Allow game to control settings and set to 900 degrees if you want. What got it right for me was to crank the Force Feedback in game right full but turn it down in the logitech profiler under the global device settings, I like it as low at 55 percent. I feel everything in the road, it's no longer spastic and I feel slip during understeer as well now. Pretty happy !.
I've got a Thrustmaster F430 FFB Wheel and I just spent the last two hours getting the settings just so - it is brilliant now. I can now go for miles down the highway, weaving in and out of the traffic and not hit anything. Cool, really cool!
I do, however, agree with all you guys who say the FFB needs tweaking. Going off road does seem to increase the FFB by about a factor of 20. Sadly, this means that you have to have the FFB turned right down, which means you barely feel anything on the highways. All it needs is a little tweak.
I have to say, I wasn't immensely impressed when I started playing the game. That was until, whilst hammering it up and down a highway getting my wheel settings just so, I thought to myself, 'I wonder what these settings feel like off-road?'. A big smile spread across my face as I flung the steering wheel right and drove off the highway and off into the fields. That was so flippin' cool...
That's when I 'got' the game...
I do, however, agree with all you guys who say the FFB needs tweaking. Going off road does seem to increase the FFB by about a factor of 20. Sadly, this means that you have to have the FFB turned right down, which means you barely feel anything on the highways. All it needs is a little tweak.
I have to say, I wasn't immensely impressed when I started playing the game. That was until, whilst hammering it up and down a highway getting my wheel settings just so, I thought to myself, 'I wonder what these settings feel like off-road?'. A big smile spread across my face as I flung the steering wheel right and drove off the highway and off into the fields. That was so flippin' cool...
That's when I 'got' the game...
Update, after 6 hours with The Crew and my T300rs. Right now with my current settings (FFB two notches from bottom, all dead zones down, and all linearity up) im having an enjoyable time with the game. So far at level 12 Ive been silver or Golding most events and beating my crew mates who all use a controller. If ubisoft could adjust the FFB so that's more responsible and we can get a better feel of our cars I'd be a happy camper. It's very empty in the center and I don't get a good feed for the road on straights. The vibration for wheels needs some work as well.
The jerky feeling in the feed back going from no force to max force was fixed for my by turning the feedback in game all the way up and turning it down some in the logitech profiler. This also got rid of the slop in the middle.
Update, after 6 hours with The Crew and my T300rs. Right now with my current settings (FFB two notches from bottom, all dead zones down, and all linearity up) im having an enjoyable time with the game. So far at level 12 Ive been silver or Golding most events and beating my crew mates who all use a controller. If ubisoft could adjust the FFB so that's more responsible and we can get a better feel of our cars I'd be a happy camper. It's very empty in the center and I don't get a good feed for the road on straights. The vibration for wheels needs some work as well.
I don't know about Thrustmaster wheels but it sounds like the same thing I was dealing with on my Logitech wheel. If you have a forcefeed back slider for the wheel out side of the game try using that to dial in the the feedback but make sure that in game is set to max. Since doing this I now feel weight transfer, no slop in the middle and overall a better experience.
I don't know about Thrustmaster wheels but it sounds like the same thing I was dealing with on my Logitech wheel. If you have a forcefeed back slider for the wheel out side of the game try using that to dial in the the feedback but make sure that in game is set to max. Since doing this I now feel weight transfer, no slop in the middle and overall a better experience.
I don't know about Thrustmaster wheels but it sounds like the same thing I was dealing with on my Logitech wheel. If you have a forcefeed back slider for the wheel out side of the game try using that to dial in the the feedback but make sure that in game is set to max. Since doing this I now feel weight transfer, no slop in the middle and overall a better experience.
I'm on the PS4 so there are no external wheel settings for me to adjust. I'm looking at you Sony.
I'm on the PS4 so there are no external wheel settings for me to adjust. I'm looking at you Sony.
Update, after 6 hours with The Crew and my T300rs. Right now with my current settings (FFB two notches from bottom, all dead zones down, and all linearity up) im having an enjoyable time with the game. So far at level 12 Ive been silver or Golding most events and beating my crew mates who all use a controller. If ubisoft could adjust the FFB so that's more responsible and we can get a better feel of our cars I'd be a happy camper. It's very empty in the center and I don't get a good feed for the road on straights. The vibration for wheels needs some work as well.
Same settings I have, it is ok but not more than that. Force feedback is especially bad on off road tracks. Interesting to read that Thrustmaster and Ubisoft knows about this already....
Same settings I have, it is ok but not more than that. Force feedback is especially bad on off road tracks. Interesting to read that Thrustmaster and Ubisoft knows about this already....
maybe thats helps a bit http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
maybe thats helps a bit http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
Thanks for the heads-up with that post, smartin13. I'll try that out!
Thanks for the heads-up with that post, smartin13. I'll try that out!
After reading this, I think I will just stop playing this game until Thrustmaster wheel issues are solved:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966456-For-all-PS4-T500RS-Users?
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966456-For-all-PS4-T500RS-Users?
What is really dumb is when people complain about the game's controls without bothering to tweak them. They are there for a reason. Must be dumbed down console gamers I guess..
I am using my HOTAS for driving and it works great, but I was considering ti invest in a wheel just for this game, as I normally don't play racing games.
I think analogue sticks got too few input steps unless you use a big joystick.
I am using my HOTAS for driving and it works great, but I was considering ti invest in a wheel just for this game, as I normally don't play racing games.
I think analogue sticks got too few input steps unless you use a big joystick.
I'm running a Fanatec CSW.
It is like most of you guys say. Basically nothing around center but then way to strong at high loads. Yeah I think all we need is a nice amount of minimum force that we can dial in. Then we can lower the overall force to make it better at peak tyre forces.
It is like most of you guys say. Basically nothing around center but then way to strong at high loads. Yeah I think all we need is a nice amount of minimum force that we can dial in. Then we can lower the overall force to make it better at peak tyre forces.
it works awesome for me, I'm using a Fanatec CSR, feels realistic too on hardcore mode
are you pc or 360? I'm on the 360 and it does'nt feel to bad, FFb is a little weak. I can't use manual trans thou because it does'nt regonize my H-shifter and I can't change the paddles to gear up & down. I hope they address this.
are you pc or 360? I'm on the 360 and it does'nt feel to bad, FFb is a little weak. I can't use manual trans thou because it does'nt regonize my H-shifter and I can't change the paddles to gear up & down. I hope they address this.
IMPOSSIBLE WITH A G27; BURNOUT PARADISE IS MUCH EASIER TO CONTROL. That's not right! Fix it Ubisoft.
IMPOSSIBLE WITH A G27; BURNOUT PARADISE IS MUCH EASIER TO CONTROL. That's not right! Fix it Ubisoft.
Burnout Paradise is supposed to be very easy... this game is also pretty easy with a wheel, I'm a G27 user myself. I suggest practicing.
Burnout Paradise is supposed to be very easy... this game is also pretty easy with a wheel, I'm a G27 user myself. I suggest practicing.
Playing on Driving force GT on hardcore settings with manual gear. Already completed all story missions and now playing in pvp. Works fine for me, but I blocked my driver options from changing, because game engine changed my 480 degrees on somethig like 200 degrees. Feedback works fine.
The steering with G25 is a mess, not precise and not responsive.
The handling became worst since PC betas. The sliders such as steering sensitivity etc are useless.
FFB is really bad.
My friend playing with G27 and he said that the game has the worst G27 support. He don't even play it because of that.
The handling became worst since PC betas. The sliders such as steering sensitivity etc are useless.
FFB is really bad.
My friend playing with G27 and he said that the game has the worst G27 support. He don't even play it because of that.
I play the game on my Keyboard for now. I tried with G25 and it's really jerky.. the way it feels and handles is just wierd.. They need to improve Steering wheel support ASAP.
well i dont´kno, maybe it´s different for 360+ degree wheels, but on my cheap Speedlink Carbon GT, which is no doubt more suited for arcade racers and not sims, the game plays like perfect... it feels right, it handles right, and it´s actually a lot of fun to drive with this wheel... took me a while to adjust the sliders to get the best out of it, and all i can say : nope, the sliders aren´t useless at all...
when i read all this stuff here, i´m glad i spent like 17 bucks on ebay for a solid arcade wheel rather than 170 for a "professional" one :)
when i read all this stuff here, i´m glad i spent like 17 bucks on ebay for a solid arcade wheel rather than 170 for a "professional" one :)
THE CREW PC VERSION: No real problems here with my Fanatec CSB v1 (+BMW rim), CSPv2 and CSS 1.5... Sometimes the FF is heavy and can change into a weaker feel.
and also the wheel sensitivity can be improved at certain points, but some people say by buying updates for the cars, the behaviour wil improve, so I wait and see...
The only real annoying thing is the behaviour of the clutch ; it's far from real and works like an on/off button - just like it was in TDU2...
I really hope the devs wil change this with a patch and making the clutch in this beautiful racegame more realistic!
and also the wheel sensitivity can be improved at certain points, but some people say by buying updates for the cars, the behaviour wil improve, so I wait and see...
The only real annoying thing is the behaviour of the clutch ; it's far from real and works like an on/off button - just like it was in TDU2...
I really hope the devs wil change this with a patch and making the clutch in this beautiful racegame more realistic!
A great driving experience with my G25 and the '15 Mustang Fastback once I got level 15 parts on it while keeping tires at level 1. At some point, I got annoyed by the storyline so badly that I needed a breath of fresh air. I had the BMW Z4 in my garage as a pre-order bonus. I never planned to check it out because chick cars don't do it for me (I didn't even redeem my code for the mini) but I ended up giving it a go anyway... and fell in love instantly. The handling and FFB coupled with the cockpit view (easily the most immersive one in the whole game) made driving it a really engrossing experience from the get go, and it kept getting better as I upgraded all the parts except the tires. I've now spent the past 2 days driving around, doing just exploration and skills. My right foot hurts like hell from the pedal action but I can't wait to go back.
@Alex, here are my settings in an 8 picture gallery: http://imgur.com/a/eRTgn
See if you can find something in there to get you on the right track. I also added the extra config xml posted on the site by the Lead Physics. I didn't modify anything in it, just copy and pasted the first config. Not sure it did anything on its own though, but the FFB is now even better than in TDU 1 HC mode. We still need a true hardcore mode though, but the FFB is ready for prime-time.
@Alex, here are my settings in an 8 picture gallery: http://imgur.com/a/eRTgn
See if you can find something in there to get you on the right track. I also added the extra config xml posted on the site by the Lead Physics. I didn't modify anything in it, just copy and pasted the first config. Not sure it did anything on its own though, but the FFB is now even better than in TDU 1 HC mode. We still need a true hardcore mode though, but the FFB is ready for prime-time.
@Alex, here are my settings in an 8 picture gallery
See if you can find something in there to get you on the right track.
Thanks! I'll try them :)
P.S.I use almost the same settings, but I definitely should try to set overall effect in profiler to 65 too(maybe then FFB in game would be not so aggressive.)
See if you can find something in there to get you on the right track.
Thanks! I'll try them :)
P.S.I use almost the same settings, but I definitely should try to set overall effect in profiler to 65 too(maybe then FFB in game would be not so aggressive.)
I've bought a Logitech Driving Force GT yesterday to play The Crew...
I don't have a lot of experience with force feedback on other games yet, but I'll give an opinion...
I was surprised the wheel had so much strength with the crew in the first place... But that can be changed easily....
What I liked less is that when I'm driving on a straight road, you can't feel anything of the road... A slight vibrating to get the feeling I'm driving on a road would be nice... Now it feels like I'm flying ;) The wheel is complete sensiteveless...
When I'm steering to left and right the resistance of the force feedback is high... It 'kicks' in hard.... Make it more smooth...
So in my opinion:
- When driving straight: give a minimum of vibration of force feedback to make you 'feel' you are driving
- When steering: Make the force feedback less kick in hard but more lineair
Beside these things, The Crew is really fun to play with my new steering wheel... Just driving for fun... :D
I don't have a lot of experience with force feedback on other games yet, but I'll give an opinion...
I was surprised the wheel had so much strength with the crew in the first place... But that can be changed easily....
What I liked less is that when I'm driving on a straight road, you can't feel anything of the road... A slight vibrating to get the feeling I'm driving on a road would be nice... Now it feels like I'm flying ;) The wheel is complete sensiteveless...
When I'm steering to left and right the resistance of the force feedback is high... It 'kicks' in hard.... Make it more smooth...
So in my opinion:
- When driving straight: give a minimum of vibration of force feedback to make you 'feel' you are driving
- When steering: Make the force feedback less kick in hard but more lineair
Beside these things, The Crew is really fun to play with my new steering wheel... Just driving for fun... :D
Thanks! I'll try them :)
P.S.I use almost the same settings, but I definitely should try to set overall effect in profiler to 65 too(maybe then FFB in game would be not so aggressive.)
I had it set to 75% at first but my left hand that stays on the wheel the longest got sore after a few hours. I was driving the modern Mustang GT 500 so that may have something to do with it. When I get the Viper I'll probably bump it up to 80-85% because of how brutal that car handles in real life. 65% feels right with the BMW Z4 and the Dodge Ram so I'll use that as default for all cars except for the ones that don't have power steering in real life. There's feedback around center but it's light enough for modern cars with power steering.
If it still doesn't work for you, then I'm afraid you'll have to go for the kill, which means deep uninstalling Logitech drivers and as far and reinstalling Windows as a last resort. Good luck!
P.S.I use almost the same settings, but I definitely should try to set overall effect in profiler to 65 too(maybe then FFB in game would be not so aggressive.)
I had it set to 75% at first but my left hand that stays on the wheel the longest got sore after a few hours. I was driving the modern Mustang GT 500 so that may have something to do with it. When I get the Viper I'll probably bump it up to 80-85% because of how brutal that car handles in real life. 65% feels right with the BMW Z4 and the Dodge Ram so I'll use that as default for all cars except for the ones that don't have power steering in real life. There's feedback around center but it's light enough for modern cars with power steering.
If it still doesn't work for you, then I'm afraid you'll have to go for the kill, which means deep uninstalling Logitech drivers and as far and reinstalling Windows as a last resort. Good luck!
I use the T300rs on the PS4 and with the right settings it is nice and the cars are easier to control in skill challenges but when playing with a wheel on hardcore vehicles tend to tankslap every now and then. People with a controller have an advanted because they can throw the car into turns easily, while wheel users really can't. I like using the wheel especially for cruising and I spent a few hours trying to perfect drifting in the snowy regions and finally got it down and if you can do it, it is extremely fun with a wheel. You sadly cannot looke left and right witht the D-pad, there is no custom button mapping which is sad.
Since making this thread I have actually gone back to using the controller for this game. With the bad FFB and button mapping Its just to much of a disadvantage to use a wheel. If they can get the feeling close to drive club I'll gladly use my wheel but until then its the controller.
g27 is just fine. Offroad FFB is a bit brutal but it's fine after adjustment. I have it set up for hardcore and I have the steering bias set to a realistic level, to do a full wheel turn you need to turn it almost 800 degrees. This helps emmensely and makes the game feel much better. The spring is significantly reduced and it feels a lot like driving a real car, when done properly.
The cars themselves are not similar to their real world counterparts, but what they do do with the wheel is fine.
I own a real world R32 GT-R and I've driven most if not all of the cars featured in the first part of this game - and none of them actually feel like they do in the game - the cars themselves drive pretty much all like an f150 in this game. But that's not the point, this is an Arcade Racer for funzies. Don't forget that.
If you want simulation, wait for project cars.
Even Shift 2 has very realistic car physics for the cars themselves. This game does not, but that's not the point and it's still fun.
The cars themselves are not similar to their real world counterparts, but what they do do with the wheel is fine.
I own a real world R32 GT-R and I've driven most if not all of the cars featured in the first part of this game - and none of them actually feel like they do in the game - the cars themselves drive pretty much all like an f150 in this game. But that's not the point, this is an Arcade Racer for funzies. Don't forget that.
If you want simulation, wait for project cars.
Even Shift 2 has very realistic car physics for the cars themselves. This game does not, but that's not the point and it's still fun.
When i started the Beta. I was driving with my Keyboard and man did i suck... I quickly switched to my Controller and got a bit better.
To the Release i bought a Steering wheel (Thrustmaster Ferrari GT) I have so much fun driving with it even tho you need to adjust the setting a little bit so it fitted what I like.
I am happy so far with my Steering Wheel and i have much fun driving with it :)
To the Release i bought a Steering wheel (Thrustmaster Ferrari GT) I have so much fun driving with it even tho you need to adjust the setting a little bit so it fitted what I like.
I am happy so far with my Steering Wheel and i have much fun driving with it :)
Just like the title says Id like to know how you guys with wheels are handling the game. I have the crew and a t300rs (PS4) but haven't played the game yet. Are you guys finding it doable or are you switching to controllers / m&kb? Are you able to keep up with races? Post your experiences. Hopefully we can all assist each other.
I have spent all my time in game since release continuously tweaking both out of game and in game wheel settings.
Was initially impressed with how well the game detected the wheel, auto-mapped the buttons, and gave me the option to view the sensitivity bar/belt/graph of what those sensitivity changes were actually doing. But to all avail.
Not matter whether I choose 900 degrees, 200 degrees, high or low sensitivity, a big or small deadzone, the car will always lose control at high speeds. In an unpredictable way that you do not find with the analog stick or a tap of A or D.
Force feedback is great at 10% for road surfaces, pulling the wheel in a way which doesn't ruin your line. But higher %s of FFB and even 10% on country road/trail or any non-tarmack surface leads to such great kickback that your line is ruined by the wheel's pulling. So I have turned FFB fully off because the crew is 98% dirt roads and 2% tarmac.
It's like the developers put so much effort into SUPPORTING wheels, that they didn't spend any time TESTING those settings to see if hardware could keep up with a simple controller or the keyboard.
Any advice on WORKING default settings which stop you from swaying wildly at higher speeds, making dodging traffic (a HUGE part of most missions/ some challenges) IMPOSSIBLE. Right now using my G27 feels like I've spent £150 to be CONSISTENTLY worse than players using controller/ keyboard.
I have spent all my time in game since release continuously tweaking both out of game and in game wheel settings.
Was initially impressed with how well the game detected the wheel, auto-mapped the buttons, and gave me the option to view the sensitivity bar/belt/graph of what those sensitivity changes were actually doing. But to all avail.
Not matter whether I choose 900 degrees, 200 degrees, high or low sensitivity, a big or small deadzone, the car will always lose control at high speeds. In an unpredictable way that you do not find with the analog stick or a tap of A or D.
Force feedback is great at 10% for road surfaces, pulling the wheel in a way which doesn't ruin your line. But higher %s of FFB and even 10% on country road/trail or any non-tarmack surface leads to such great kickback that your line is ruined by the wheel's pulling. So I have turned FFB fully off because the crew is 98% dirt roads and 2% tarmac.
It's like the developers put so much effort into SUPPORTING wheels, that they didn't spend any time TESTING those settings to see if hardware could keep up with a simple controller or the keyboard.
Any advice on WORKING default settings which stop you from swaying wildly at higher speeds, making dodging traffic (a HUGE part of most missions/ some challenges) IMPOSSIBLE. Right now using my G27 feels like I've spent £150 to be CONSISTENTLY worse than players using controller/ keyboard.
Hey guys,
I have a logitech driving force and i was wondering if one of you could help me with the settings. I cannot seem to find the sweet spot. And since i am new in the gaming wheel world i thought i'd ask you guys.
First of on my logitech profiler i have in the global settings everything 100% and the rotation on 900 degrees. Also what do the combined paddle check and the centerspring for FFB do?
In game i have set the FFB on 50% and the linerity full. Could any one of you help me with a setting that makes this game more enjoyable.
The biggest problem i have with this game is that on straights when you let go of the wheel it goes left/right by itself and eventually spins the car. But this is more a game issue then my wheel i think.
I have a logitech driving force and i was wondering if one of you could help me with the settings. I cannot seem to find the sweet spot. And since i am new in the gaming wheel world i thought i'd ask you guys.
First of on my logitech profiler i have in the global settings everything 100% and the rotation on 900 degrees. Also what do the combined paddle check and the centerspring for FFB do?
In game i have set the FFB on 50% and the linerity full. Could any one of you help me with a setting that makes this game more enjoyable.
The biggest problem i have with this game is that on straights when you let go of the wheel it goes left/right by itself and eventually spins the car. But this is more a game issue then my wheel i think.
The force feed back and wheel support in The Crew seems to be in flux at the moment. My personal experience with two different wheels were less than satisfactory. Starting with the g25, the game was unable to see the wheel. Some buttons worked but some didnt. Menu navigation was not working and the game acts as if it is a regular controller with the Force Feedback slider greyed out.
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
Hey man, with regards to your grey slider issue - this is all to do with windows using it's generic G27 drivers instead of Logitech. (You need to uninstall the current driver - control panel, hardware, game controllers, right click on g27 and properties, then remove driver.)
Then download the logitech 5.x version of their gaming software (this stuff is for wheels and comes with profiler software) Then run this, re plugging the wheel in when it asks, it will fully install the correct drivers. The Crew should now see your wheel, input all your clutch controls for you and it will make the rev limiter lights on the wheel work.
Then you'll be at my stage, which is getting the wheel to work at high speeds, where the car sways very easily.
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
Hey man, with regards to your grey slider issue - this is all to do with windows using it's generic G27 drivers instead of Logitech. (You need to uninstall the current driver - control panel, hardware, game controllers, right click on g27 and properties, then remove driver.)
Then download the logitech 5.x version of their gaming software (this stuff is for wheels and comes with profiler software) Then run this, re plugging the wheel in when it asks, it will fully install the correct drivers. The Crew should now see your wheel, input all your clutch controls for you and it will make the rev limiter lights on the wheel work.
Then you'll be at my stage, which is getting the wheel to work at high speeds, where the car sways very easily.
Hey guys,
I have a logitech driving force and i was wondering if one of you could help me with the settings. I cannot seem to find the sweet spot. And since i am new in the gaming wheel world i thought i'd ask you guys.
First of on my logitech profiler i have in the global settings everything 100% and the rotation on 900 degrees. Also what do the combined paddle check and the centerspring for FFB do?
In game i have set the FFB on 50% and the linerity full. Could any one of you help me with a setting that makes this game more enjoyable.
The biggest problem i have with this game is that on straights when you let go of the wheel it goes left/right by itself and eventually spins the car. But this is more a game issue then my wheel i think.
Combined pedals should be off, this is for older games that could not tell the difference between pedals and definitely does not apply here. - Keep unticked.
Centerspring is awesome, it tells the wheel to "pull" toward the centre (for me it makes the wheel feel more like an analog stick, every time i let go, it wants to go back to not inputting anything). The strength obviously is how much from 0% to 150% it gives you this effect, too high and full lock is tiresome to achieve, too little and you will oversway at high speeds as the wheel will be too free in your hands.
Anything else you are not sure of let me know. I am still not happy with getting the wheel to work under all conditions, my vehicle still sways and is generally horrible to drive at high speeds.
I have a logitech driving force and i was wondering if one of you could help me with the settings. I cannot seem to find the sweet spot. And since i am new in the gaming wheel world i thought i'd ask you guys.
First of on my logitech profiler i have in the global settings everything 100% and the rotation on 900 degrees. Also what do the combined paddle check and the centerspring for FFB do?
In game i have set the FFB on 50% and the linerity full. Could any one of you help me with a setting that makes this game more enjoyable.
The biggest problem i have with this game is that on straights when you let go of the wheel it goes left/right by itself and eventually spins the car. But this is more a game issue then my wheel i think.
Combined pedals should be off, this is for older games that could not tell the difference between pedals and definitely does not apply here. - Keep unticked.
Centerspring is awesome, it tells the wheel to "pull" toward the centre (for me it makes the wheel feel more like an analog stick, every time i let go, it wants to go back to not inputting anything). The strength obviously is how much from 0% to 150% it gives you this effect, too high and full lock is tiresome to achieve, too little and you will oversway at high speeds as the wheel will be too free in your hands.
Anything else you are not sure of let me know. I am still not happy with getting the wheel to work under all conditions, my vehicle still sways and is generally horrible to drive at high speeds.
g27 is just fine. Offroad FFB is a bit brutal but it's fine after adjustment. I have it set up for hardcore and I have the steering bias set to a realistic level, to do a full wheel turn you need to turn it almost 800 degrees. This helps emmensely and makes the game feel much better. The spring is significantly reduced and it feels a lot like driving a real car, when done properly.
The cars themselves are not similar to their real world counterparts, but what they do do with the wheel is fine.
I own a real world R32 GT-R and I've driven most if not all of the cars featured in the first part of this game - and none of them actually feel like they do in the game - the cars themselves drive pretty much all like an f150 in this game. But that's not the point, this is an Arcade Racer for funzies. Don't forget that.
If you want simulation, wait for project cars.
Even Shift 2 has very realistic car physics for the cars themselves. This game does not, but that's not the point and it's still fun.
Hey there, I have tried 900 and 800 rotations and it just feels like in a challenge i'd never stop throwing the wheel one whole turn one way then the other etc. With these settings you are able to complete challenges in gold? Consistently?
The cars themselves are not similar to their real world counterparts, but what they do do with the wheel is fine.
I own a real world R32 GT-R and I've driven most if not all of the cars featured in the first part of this game - and none of them actually feel like they do in the game - the cars themselves drive pretty much all like an f150 in this game. But that's not the point, this is an Arcade Racer for funzies. Don't forget that.
If you want simulation, wait for project cars.
Even Shift 2 has very realistic car physics for the cars themselves. This game does not, but that's not the point and it's still fun.
Hey there, I have tried 900 and 800 rotations and it just feels like in a challenge i'd never stop throwing the wheel one whole turn one way then the other etc. With these settings you are able to complete challenges in gold? Consistently?
This is one of the worse racing game I've played. The fact that the wheel support is horrible doesn't help. I play on XboxOne with the TX Ferrari 458. The feel in the wheel is totally inconsistent, going from a little tug to an arm snatching pull when your car's tail slides. There is supposed to be an update in the works for the wheel support but you would think that being a racing game, this would have been one of the first bug to be ironed out BEFORE the game release. Even during beta testing everyone was complaining about it.
One small question. Do you have the "allow games to change settings" box checked on or off?
you guys are nuts... lol yup i said it. THE WHEEL is perfectly fine. works very good and has good FF support as well. i really dont know what you guys are doing and you shouldn't really bash the game because you cant get your settings right...
This is one of the worse racing game I've played. The fact that the wheel support is horrible doesn't help. I play on XboxOne with the TX Ferrari 458. The feel in the wheel is totally inconsistent, going from a little tug to an arm snatching pull when your car's tail slides. There is supposed to be an update in the works for the wheel support but you would think that being a racing game, this would have been one of the first bug to be ironed out BEFORE the game release. Even during beta testing everyone was complaining about it.
Sorry...but you making a drama where there isn´t ...
I bought the game today and past 15 mns more or less i had find a good setup in my wheel to play it...
I´m not saying that the setup isn´t a bit messed up...it is, but at least it´s better than TDU2...in that game you couldn´t possibly take the lag from the wheel...and that sucked
This game as much more responsive wheel outputs.
Sorry...but you making a drama where there isn´t ...
I bought the game today and past 15 mns more or less i had find a good setup in my wheel to play it...
I´m not saying that the setup isn´t a bit messed up...it is, but at least it´s better than TDU2...in that game you couldn´t possibly take the lag from the wheel...and that sucked
This game as much more responsive wheel outputs.
Sorry...but you making a drama where there isn´t ...
I bought the game today and past 15 mns more or less i had find a good setup in my wheel to play it...
I´m not saying that the setup isn´t a bit messed up...it is, but at least it´s better than TDU2...in that game you couldn´t possibly take the lag from the wheel...and that sucked
This game as much more responsive wheel outputs.
I assume that you are playing on PC. The problem is with the consoles. They totally messed it up.
I bought the game today and past 15 mns more or less i had find a good setup in my wheel to play it...
I´m not saying that the setup isn´t a bit messed up...it is, but at least it´s better than TDU2...in that game you couldn´t possibly take the lag from the wheel...and that sucked
This game as much more responsive wheel outputs.
I assume that you are playing on PC. The problem is with the consoles. They totally messed it up.
I hate the force feedback, all the way up (DFGT) it twitches so hard but all the way down it is so light on the wheel. can only turn wheel 90 degrees and you cant revert to default settings if you mess something up. i doub't theyll fix this but i hope someone posts some good settings.
So I had the same problem with my Fanatec CSR wheel. The FFB was all jerky and it was absolutely impossible to handle. Then on the wheel I switched off Damper and Spring effects. That's what seemed to have caused the jerkyness. At first I thought it was also the sensitivity (180° vs 900° settings on the wheel) and switched that off too but when I dared turn it to 180° its actually ok and not jerky. But I still have to find the right sensitivity. Its like the game sees it only black and white: When I have it on 180° its a bit too responsive but turning the sensitivity up to 270° already makes like its not steering at all.
One of the devs has actually put up some additional settings you can put in some config file. I will try those out. Right now it just doesn't feel right and far from perfect or smooth. But then again I am spoiled by the Forza 4 FFB on that wheel. I hope I will find someone with the same wheel and on PC who can give me some usable settings.
So to answer your question. Depending on the wheel you're using you need to turn off some additional effects on the wheel itself. I don't know if the G27 has these "internal" settings/tuning setups but they were definitely the reason my wheel was an epileptic.
Cheers
So I had the same problem with my Fanatec CSR wheel. The FFB was all jerky and it was absolutely impossible to handle. Then on the wheel I switched off Damper and Spring effects. That's what seemed to have caused the jerkyness. At first I thought it was also the sensitivity (180° vs 900° settings on the wheel) and switched that off too but when I dared turn it to 180° its actually ok and not jerky. But I still have to find the right sensitivity. Its like the game sees it only black and white: When I have it on 180° its a bit too responsive but turning the sensitivity up to 270° already makes like its not steering at all.
One of the devs has actually put up some additional settings you can put in some config file. I will try those out. Right now it just doesn't feel right and far from perfect or smooth. But then again I am spoiled by the Forza 4 FFB on that wheel. I hope I will find someone with the same wheel and on PC who can give me some usable settings.
So to answer your question. Depending on the wheel you're using you need to turn off some additional effects on the wheel itself. I don't know if the G27 has these "internal" settings/tuning setups but they were definitely the reason my wheel was an epileptic.
Cheers
Im using the Fanatec CSR wheel and Fanatec pedals and H-Shifter on PC myself. Ittakes a little tweaking with force feedback settings and the liniarity of the axes but 'd say never a game pad again. Th steering is so perciese it almost feels like Assetto osa or iRacing when the setup is done right...
The force feed back and wheel support in The Crew seems to be in flux at the moment. My personal experience with two different wheels were less than satisfactory. Starting with the g25, the game was unable to see the wheel. Some buttons worked but some didnt. Menu navigation was not working and the game acts as if it is a regular controller with the Force Feedback slider greyed out.
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
Hi I hope you have been succussful. Check out my previous post in this thread. I kinda got it working ok. Not perfect but just about ok. Still working on better solutions.
Cheers
Moving on the the Fanatec Porch Gt2. This wheel seems to be dected properly however the force feedback is all over the place. One moment it is very light feeling as if it is not working only to jeak the wheel from your hands pushing the motor in the wheel in to squealing. This is with the in game slider at one tick up from the lowest setting. The lowest setting has no force.
This game appears to have much promise but the wheel support seems to be hit and miss. I will be spending the next few hours (don't ya love pc gaming) working on getting this sorted but I feel I have tried most everything with both in game and driver settings.
Again, I am going to dive in and try to find something usable. I i will share my findings if there is anything new to add.
Hi I hope you have been succussful. Check out my previous post in this thread. I kinda got it working ok. Not perfect but just about ok. Still working on better solutions.
Cheers
Im using the Fanatec CSR wheel and Fanatec pedals and H-Shifter on PC myself. Ittakes a little tweaking with force feedback settings and the liniarity of the axes but 'd say never a game pad again. Th steering is so perciese it almost feels like Assetto osa or iRacing when the setup is done right...
Hey man that's really great if you figured it out. Could you post the On-Wheel-Tuning setup you use? and also the ingame Settings? That would be so much appreciated. I also use the CSR + Pedals + H-Shifter.
Cheers
Hey man that's really great if you figured it out. Could you post the On-Wheel-Tuning setup you use? and also the ingame Settings? That would be so much appreciated. I also use the CSR + Pedals + H-Shifter.
Cheers
I have fanatec gt2, my xbox recognize the wheel, but in the crew i cant shift, i cant use clutch, i cant use H-Shifter it seems like the pad settings are inside the wheel, need a fix for this
Sorry for my english
You could also maybe try firmware reset [press tuning button 10sec until tuning screen shows rSt] and then calibrate the H-Shifter again. I also had the issue with Forza 4. There I only needed to unplug the power and turn it back on to get the shifter working properly. That was ingame. Still, try calibration first then the unplug and plug in thing.
Sorry for my english
You could also maybe try firmware reset [press tuning button 10sec until tuning screen shows rSt] and then calibrate the H-Shifter again. I also had the issue with Forza 4. There I only needed to unplug the power and turn it back on to get the shifter working properly. That was ingame. Still, try calibration first then the unplug and plug in thing.
it works awesome for me, I'm using a Fanatec CSR, feels realistic too on hardcore mode
Hi are you playing on PC? Could you post ALL your settings please (ingame and om-wheel)? That would be awesome. I also use that wheel but on PC and its not quite perfect yet. I got the jerkyness out though.
Hi are you playing on PC? Could you post ALL your settings please (ingame and om-wheel)? That would be awesome. I also use that wheel but on PC and its not quite perfect yet. I got the jerkyness out though.
hey guys
i've been tweaking the extraconfig for my Logitech MOMO Racing Force Feedback Wheel. As the tutorial topic is just an information page, i'll post my settings here. I think i'm pretty happy with these settings. It doesn't get rid of pretty heavy bumps on dirt but it does seem to give a bit more feel for the grip limit on road. getting rid of bumpyness would be cheating.
I'm also curious to see other people's setups and would like to try them out. anyway, here's mine:
I mostly tweaked lat / slipangle and camber / offset
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.4f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.8f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.25f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.25f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
edit:
i have re tweaked my file. here is the result + screen shots of settings.
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="0.95f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.5f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.8f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="5"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
http://p.im9.eu/5144.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/4172.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/2206.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/1676.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/678.jpg
i've been tweaking the extraconfig for my Logitech MOMO Racing Force Feedback Wheel. As the tutorial topic is just an information page, i'll post my settings here. I think i'm pretty happy with these settings. It doesn't get rid of pretty heavy bumps on dirt but it does seem to give a bit more feel for the grip limit on road. getting rid of bumpyness would be cheating.
I'm also curious to see other people's setups and would like to try them out. anyway, here's mine:
I mostly tweaked lat / slipangle and camber / offset
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.4f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.8f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.25f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.25f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
edit:
i have re tweaked my file. here is the result + screen shots of settings.
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="0.95f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.5f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.8f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="5"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
http://p.im9.eu/5144.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/4172.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/2206.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/1676.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/678.jpg
hey guys
i've been tweaking the extraconfig for my logitech momo. As the tutorial topic is just an information page, i'll post my settings here. I think i'm pretty happy with these settings. It doesn't get rid of pretty heavy bumps on dirt but it does seem to give a bit more feel for the grip limit on road. I'm also curious to see other people's setups and would like to try them out. anyway, here's mine:
I mostly tweaked lat / slipangle and camber / offset
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.4f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.8f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.25f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.25f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
Niceee! Hey can I add you. I have couple of questions for you as I am shortly getting momo as well.
i've been tweaking the extraconfig for my logitech momo. As the tutorial topic is just an information page, i'll post my settings here. I think i'm pretty happy with these settings. It doesn't get rid of pretty heavy bumps on dirt but it does seem to give a bit more feel for the grip limit on road. I'm also curious to see other people's setups and would like to try them out. anyway, here's mine:
I mostly tweaked lat / slipangle and camber / offset
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.4f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.8f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.25f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.25f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
Niceee! Hey can I add you. I have couple of questions for you as I am shortly getting momo as well.
For g27 users...in profiler turn ffb to 100 percent...rotation to 900... all other settings at ZERO. THOSE SETTINGS ARE FOR OLDER GAMES WITH MISSING FFB FEATURES. This game does not need artificial ffb screwing up the feel. In game I have ffb maxed out. Adjust for your preferences. I maxed out sensitivity as well and speed factor is off per my preference. Next to assetto corsa one of the best ffb driving games I ever played.
Again...the other settings in the profiler are ARTIFICIAL. Not the game's ffb. 100% ffb in profiler is as close to 1:1 you will get. Try it.
Again...the other settings in the profiler are ARTIFICIAL. Not the game's ffb. 100% ffb in profiler is as close to 1:1 you will get. Try it.
has anyone else experienced the g27 freaking the f*ck out when they slightly move the wheel (while driving and in menus)?. It works perfectly on the PS3 with GT6 and other racing games on the PC.
All but given up.. used the info above created the xml file, have the same settings on my profiler.. the wheel sucks.. to even attempt a slalom is hilarious I just wipe out.
Have tried in game settings from highest sensitivity to low andeverything in between.. dead zoneset from none to midrange.. highest setting from low to high..
I just don't know what else to do.. any suggestions helpful at this point.. if you can do slalom with out issue please post your settings..
Have tried in game settings from highest sensitivity to low andeverything in between.. dead zoneset from none to midrange.. highest setting from low to high..
I just don't know what else to do.. any suggestions helpful at this point.. if you can do slalom with out issue please post your settings..
i have no problem doing slalom or line with my wheel, dirt or tar. although i do have to keep my grip on the wheel strong on dirt or when sliding.
my settings are zero deadzone and fully linear in wheel, with game ff at full and logitech profiler ff at 66-100% depending on preference. i have it on 90% at the moment.
with the extraconfig i posted above it feels pretty good, but feel free to tweak around using the tutorial topic or use the examples given there.
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
for pedals i use a nice fluid curve, with deadzones set for my 0% and 100% with the corresponding buttons.
(hardcore mode of course)
@ jeyd02
feel free to send me an invite any time
my settings are zero deadzone and fully linear in wheel, with game ff at full and logitech profiler ff at 66-100% depending on preference. i have it on 90% at the moment.
with the extraconfig i posted above it feels pretty good, but feel free to tweak around using the tutorial topic or use the examples given there.
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
for pedals i use a nice fluid curve, with deadzones set for my 0% and 100% with the corresponding buttons.
(hardcore mode of course)
@ jeyd02
feel free to send me an invite any time
[QUOTE=ThaJay1;10434296]i have no problem doing slalom or line with my wheel, dirt or tar. although i do have to keep my grip on the wheel strong on dirt or when sliding.
my settings are zero deadzone and fully linear in wheel, with game ff at full and logitech profiler ff at 66-100% depending on preference. i have it on 90% at the moment.
with the extraconfig i posted above it feels pretty good, but feel free to tweak around using the tutorial topic or use the examples given there.
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
for pedals i use a nice fluid curve, with deadzones set for my 0% and 100% with the corresponding buttons.
(hardcore mode of course)
@ jeyd02
feel free to send me an invite any time[/QUOTE
Could you explain the full linear.. Still new to the wheel..
Print screen of your settings would be amazing.. as I feel a lot off people could benefit from your knowledge.
my settings are zero deadzone and fully linear in wheel, with game ff at full and logitech profiler ff at 66-100% depending on preference. i have it on 90% at the moment.
with the extraconfig i posted above it feels pretty good, but feel free to tweak around using the tutorial topic or use the examples given there.
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
for pedals i use a nice fluid curve, with deadzones set for my 0% and 100% with the corresponding buttons.
(hardcore mode of course)
@ jeyd02
feel free to send me an invite any time[/QUOTE
Could you explain the full linear.. Still new to the wheel..
Print screen of your settings would be amazing.. as I feel a lot off people could benefit from your knowledge.
I have Fanatec and got rid of the crazy FF offroad however the fix is kind of a pain. I uninstalled the Fanatec driver and installed the Logitech g25/g27 software and run the wheel in PS3/logitech mode.. You need to do this to keep the game from taking over the wheel. There is a setting in the logitech profiler that says do no let game change settings that made all the difference. The 2nd part removed the crazy FF. I set the in game FF at max and lowered it in the Logitec profile to taste. I have no slop in the center at 900 Deg, i can feel weight transfer and most road vibrations appear to be coming through fine now. When you go offroad it feels right instead of ripping the wheel out of your hands.
In game FF at max, Logitech driver main force to taste. Mine is like at 60% in the profiler.
In game FF at max, Logitech driver main force to taste. Mine is like at 60% in the profiler.
I'll make a sticky out of this with a small title adjustment ;)
Ok so i fixed my whole "has anyone else experienced the g27 freaking the *** out when they slightly move the wheel (while driving and in menus)?. It works perfectly on the PS3 with GT6 and other racing games on the PC. " problem by putting all my global device settings to 100% checking the "Enable Centering Spring in Force Feedback Games" box and unchecking the "Allow Game To Adjust Settings" box :cool:
Okay i have pretty much found a sweetspot ALSO. if anyone needs a start tip or help let me know. there are many ways in which you might want to setup your wheel.
Okay i have pretty much found a sweetspot ALSO. if anyone needs a start tip or help let me know. there are many ways in which you might want to setup your wheel.
Feel free to share your settings in game and Logitech profiler... Sure everyone would be grateful.
Feel free to share your settings in game and Logitech profiler... Sure everyone would be grateful.
Profiler settings
Overall effect strength 50
Spring "" "" 0
Damper "" "" 0
For centering spring, you must set it to 0. If you are using force feedback you must have it 0 if you not using FFB then you might use it at a strength you feel comfy. But get in mind if you use FFB effects plus center spring effect , you might experience some sloppy/jerky and noise wheel rotations.
If you want to use more than 200 degree the UNCHECK "let the game change settings". However if you want to let the game configure the range value then check it. I believe it puts it at 200.
This is all, make sure you set same settings to specific and global just in case.
*in-game*
Before launching the game, after you have set the settings in Profiler then launch game and set the force feedback to the strength that you feel comfortable. Start from the maximum strength and keep lowering until you are comfortable. (I advise to test the ff off road. Maybe get a d car and go reverse with the wheel all turned to the right and set it to how strong you want it etc.
Side note: after that then set up a nice curve to the steering until you find that the sensitivity is in part with your movement. Don't worry about the first page of control, it doesn't seem to affect wheel at all, what matter for wheel it's the curve settings with, sensitivity, deadzone, value.
Mines are in game:
FFB: 10/20 ( middle)
Steering sensitivity ; 16/20, deadzone ; 0/20, value(range); 20/20.
The throttle and brake adjustment are at your discretion.
Edit: also, add these extra configs to your documents/the crew:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
Overall effect strength 50
Spring "" "" 0
Damper "" "" 0
For centering spring, you must set it to 0. If you are using force feedback you must have it 0 if you not using FFB then you might use it at a strength you feel comfy. But get in mind if you use FFB effects plus center spring effect , you might experience some sloppy/jerky and noise wheel rotations.
If you want to use more than 200 degree the UNCHECK "let the game change settings". However if you want to let the game configure the range value then check it. I believe it puts it at 200.
This is all, make sure you set same settings to specific and global just in case.
*in-game*
Before launching the game, after you have set the settings in Profiler then launch game and set the force feedback to the strength that you feel comfortable. Start from the maximum strength and keep lowering until you are comfortable. (I advise to test the ff off road. Maybe get a d car and go reverse with the wheel all turned to the right and set it to how strong you want it etc.
Side note: after that then set up a nice curve to the steering until you find that the sensitivity is in part with your movement. Don't worry about the first page of control, it doesn't seem to affect wheel at all, what matter for wheel it's the curve settings with, sensitivity, deadzone, value.
Mines are in game:
FFB: 10/20 ( middle)
Steering sensitivity ; 16/20, deadzone ; 0/20, value(range); 20/20.
The throttle and brake adjustment are at your discretion.
Edit: also, add these extra configs to your documents/the crew:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
Profiler settings
Overall effect strength 50
Spring "" "" 0
Damper "" "" 0
For centering spring, you must set it to 0. If you are using force feedback you must have it 0 if you not using FFB then you might use it at a strength you feel comfy. But get in mind if you use FFB effects plus center spring effect , you might experience some sloppy/jerky and noise wheel rotations.
If you want to use more than 200 degree the UNCHECK "let the game change settings". However if you want to let the game configure the range value then check it. I believe it puts it at 200.
This is all, make sure you set same settings to specific and global just in case.
*in-game*
Before launching the game, after you have set the settings in Profiler then launch game and set the force feedback to the strength that you feel comfortable. Start from the maximum strength and keep lowering until you are comfortable. (I advise to test the ff off road. Maybe get a d car and go reverse with the wheel all turned to the right and set it to how strong you want it etc.
Side note: after that then set up a nice curve to the steering until you find that the sensitivity is in part with your movement. Don't worry about the first page of control, it doesn't seem to affect wheel at all, what matter for wheel it's the curve settings with, sensitivity, deadzone, value.
Mines are in game:
FFB: 10/20 ( middle)
Steering sensitivity ; 16/20, deadzone ; 0/20, value(range); 20/20.
The throttle and brake adjustment are at your discretion.
Edit: also, add these extra configs to your documents/the crew:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
Thank you for the help and I will put this in when I get home.
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
Overall effect strength 50
Spring "" "" 0
Damper "" "" 0
For centering spring, you must set it to 0. If you are using force feedback you must have it 0 if you not using FFB then you might use it at a strength you feel comfy. But get in mind if you use FFB effects plus center spring effect , you might experience some sloppy/jerky and noise wheel rotations.
If you want to use more than 200 degree the UNCHECK "let the game change settings". However if you want to let the game configure the range value then check it. I believe it puts it at 200.
This is all, make sure you set same settings to specific and global just in case.
*in-game*
Before launching the game, after you have set the settings in Profiler then launch game and set the force feedback to the strength that you feel comfortable. Start from the maximum strength and keep lowering until you are comfortable. (I advise to test the ff off road. Maybe get a d car and go reverse with the wheel all turned to the right and set it to how strong you want it etc.
Side note: after that then set up a nice curve to the steering until you find that the sensitivity is in part with your movement. Don't worry about the first page of control, it doesn't seem to affect wheel at all, what matter for wheel it's the curve settings with, sensitivity, deadzone, value.
Mines are in game:
FFB: 10/20 ( middle)
Steering sensitivity ; 16/20, deadzone ; 0/20, value(range); 20/20.
The throttle and brake adjustment are at your discretion.
Edit: also, add these extra configs to your documents/the crew:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/966806-WHEEL-GUIDE-Force-FeedBack-Extra-Tuning-PC-Version
Thank you for the help and I will put this in when I get home.
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
Thank you for the help and I will put this in when I get home.
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
yes that one, put it all the way to the right. for the highest value, it works like saturation but the opposite..
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
yes that one, put it all the way to the right. for the highest value, it works like saturation but the opposite..
Thank you for the help and I will put this in when I get home.
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
Wheel Linearity - it's in 'The Crew' settings with all the wheel settings.
I'll make a sticky out of this with a small title adjustment ;)
Thank you! :)
I already use that config file.. I keep hearing about wheel linearity.. but I don't see an option for that on the PC.
When you say value(Range) is that the setting that says highest?
Thanks for your help!
Wheel Linearity - it's in 'The Crew' settings with all the wheel settings.
I'll make a sticky out of this with a small title adjustment ;)
Thank you! :)
First of all G27 users LAUNCH Logitech 5.10 game software (or downloaded it from Logitech)
Settings Change Wheel rotation to 900 degrees why this helps dont know but it makes the Turning Sharper and really nice.
also Force feedback can be tweeked in there and check dont let game change settings I love the wheel
allows me to drift nice and smoothly
Settings Change Wheel rotation to 900 degrees why this helps dont know but it makes the Turning Sharper and really nice.
also Force feedback can be tweeked in there and check dont let game change settings I love the wheel
allows me to drift nice and smoothly
First of all G27 users LAUNCH Logitech 5.10 game software (or downloaded it from Logitech)
Settings Change Wheel rotation to 900 degrees why this helps dont know but it makes the Turning Sharper and really nice.
also Force feedback can be tweeked in there and check dont let game change settings I love the wheel
allows me to drift nice and smoothly
Really no need for 900 degree rotation
Settings Change Wheel rotation to 900 degrees why this helps dont know but it makes the Turning Sharper and really nice.
also Force feedback can be tweeked in there and check dont let game change settings I love the wheel
allows me to drift nice and smoothly
Really no need for 900 degree rotation
Correct but it makes the Steering a whole hell of a lot tighter
not sure why but it increased the sensitivity on mine alot
not sure why but it increased the sensitivity on mine alot
Still working on getting mine setup.. Used settings from above.. and Got a lot better
But still no where near as accurate as a joystick.. Which is very sad
Working off 360 degrees rotation, might try 900 to see.
I had to turn FFB down since it would turn the wheel on the dirt and spin me out.. Still have issues of if I touch dirt on the road it spins my car out, or if I have to do a quick right to left to hit a slalom.
Needs to be refined, but it is getting closer. F1 2013 is a dream to drive with the wheel, and the support and reliability of the wheel in this game is very poor in my opinion still.
But still no where near as accurate as a joystick.. Which is very sad
Working off 360 degrees rotation, might try 900 to see.
I had to turn FFB down since it would turn the wheel on the dirt and spin me out.. Still have issues of if I touch dirt on the road it spins my car out, or if I have to do a quick right to left to hit a slalom.
Needs to be refined, but it is getting closer. F1 2013 is a dream to drive with the wheel, and the support and reliability of the wheel in this game is very poor in my opinion still.
Still working on getting mine setup.. Used settings from above.. and Got a lot better
But still no where near as accurate as a joystick.. Which is very sad
Working off 360 degrees rotation, might try 900 to see.
I had to turn FFB down since it would turn the wheel on the dirt and spin me out.. Still have issues of if I touch dirt on the road it spins my car out, or if I have to do a quick right to left to hit a slalom.
Needs to be refined, but it is getting closer. F1 2013 is a dream to drive with the wheel, and the support and reliability of the wheel in this game is very poor in my opinion still.
whats is not accurate for you, the feedback or the movements? could you specify?
But still no where near as accurate as a joystick.. Which is very sad
Working off 360 degrees rotation, might try 900 to see.
I had to turn FFB down since it would turn the wheel on the dirt and spin me out.. Still have issues of if I touch dirt on the road it spins my car out, or if I have to do a quick right to left to hit a slalom.
Needs to be refined, but it is getting closer. F1 2013 is a dream to drive with the wheel, and the support and reliability of the wheel in this game is very poor in my opinion still.
whats is not accurate for you, the feedback or the movements? could you specify?
Just like the title says Id like to know how you guys with wheels are handling the game. I have the crew and a t300rs (PS4) but haven't played the game yet. Are you guys finding it doable or are you switching to controllers / m&kb? Are you able to keep up with races? Post your experiences. Hopefully we can all assist each other.
unbearable, i use a thrustmaster 458 vg cockpit on pc and i have to turn my wheel to the max before it even starts recognising with all minimal deadzones
unbearable, i use a thrustmaster 458 vg cockpit on pc and i have to turn my wheel to the max before it even starts recognising with all minimal deadzones
I would just like to pop in here and mention that I'm on PC using the G27 and have been using it since day one, I've done A LOT of fiddling with the settings for wheels, but I absolutely love it, I think that the wheel support in The Crew is far and away the best support I've seen in an 'Arcade' style racing game, I have never had a problem with doing well in races and I even hold about 4-7 World Records right now, only using my wheel. Anyone who claims the game has horrible wheel support is just too impatient to work through the settings and find a setup they like to use.
I would just like to pop in here and mention that I'm on PC using the G27 and have been using it since day one, I've done A LOT of fiddling with the settings for wheels, but I absolutely love it, I think that the wheel support in The Crew is far and away the best support I've seen in an 'Arcade' style racing game, I have never had a problem with doing well in races and I even hold about 4-7 World Records right now, only using my wheel. Anyone who claims the game has horrible wheel support is just too impatient to work through the settings and find a setup they like to use.
Awesome to hear, so what's your settings? :p
Awesome to hear, so what's your settings? :p
I use my thrustmaster t500rs and th8rs Shifter on ps4 and everything seems great except I am unable to use the clutch.
The clutch options is grayed out and is set on automatic clutch.
And the force feedback needs some tweaking IMHO.
Besides those two things I think it works great.
The clutch options is grayed out and is set on automatic clutch.
And the force feedback needs some tweaking IMHO.
Besides those two things I think it works great.
Awesome to hear, so what's your settings? :p
whats is not accurate for you, the feedback or the movements? could you specify?
It is the movements.. ffb feels good right now.. but when you need to make a big turn it spins. Our if you need to make a quick adjustment from left to right..or right to left.
S turns are deadly
whats is not accurate for you, the feedback or the movements? could you specify?
It is the movements.. ffb feels good right now.. but when you need to make a big turn it spins. Our if you need to make a quick adjustment from left to right..or right to left.
S turns are deadly
It is the movements.. ffb feels good right now.. but when you need to make a big turn it spins. Our if you need to make a quick adjustment from left to right..or right to left.
S turns are deadly
You mean the ffb is so strong that sometimes it pushes you left and right?
Remember if you have and g27 there is a dead center off ffb from 5 degrees each side. So that's why the two motor will fight each other if you have lots of ffb. Try to reduce a bit. Don't use extra ffb settings. Just overall effect.
S turns are deadly
You mean the ffb is so strong that sometimes it pushes you left and right?
Remember if you have and g27 there is a dead center off ffb from 5 degrees each side. So that's why the two motor will fight each other if you have lots of ffb. Try to reduce a bit. Don't use extra ffb settings. Just overall effect.
Set steering linearity to middle, sensitivity all the way to the right (100%), and speed sensitive steering all the way to the left (disabled), and wheel rotation to 900. That should give you the most sim-ish feel. You may find it a little hard to hold massive slides offroad at first but it is possible to get used to it.
If you prefer a more arcade experience (even in hardcore mode) then reduce the wheel rotation to around 600 degrees and move the steering linearity a little left from centre, turn speed sensitive steering up a little bit, and bring sensitivity down closer to 75%.
Use these as a baseline then fine tune one parameter at a time. Be sure to test a variety of cars and surfaces.
If you prefer a more arcade experience (even in hardcore mode) then reduce the wheel rotation to around 600 degrees and move the steering linearity a little left from centre, turn speed sensitive steering up a little bit, and bring sensitivity down closer to 75%.
Use these as a baseline then fine tune one parameter at a time. Be sure to test a variety of cars and surfaces.
Set steering linearity to middle, sensitivity all the way to the right (100%), and speed sensitive steering all the way to the left (disabled), and wheel rotation to 900. That should give you the most sim-ish feel. You may find it a little hard to hold massive slides offroad at first but it is possible to get used to it.
If you prefer a more arcade experience (even in hardcore mode) then reduce the wheel rotation to around 600 degrees and move the steering linearity a little left from centre, turn speed sensitive steering up a little bit, and bring sensitivity down closer to 75%.
Use these as a baseline then fine tune one parameter at a time. Be sure to test a variety of cars and surfaces.
Does the control settings even affect the wheel? I have tinkered with it and it didn't seem to affect anything on my steering.
If you prefer a more arcade experience (even in hardcore mode) then reduce the wheel rotation to around 600 degrees and move the steering linearity a little left from centre, turn speed sensitive steering up a little bit, and bring sensitivity down closer to 75%.
Use these as a baseline then fine tune one parameter at a time. Be sure to test a variety of cars and surfaces.
Does the control settings even affect the wheel? I have tinkered with it and it didn't seem to affect anything on my steering.
Possibly - I know the pedal settings hardly make an impact. I'm hoping they can fix this so that I don't have to give 100% clutch input to avoid grinding gears, and I'd prefer proper accelerator pedal sensitivity for improved car control and cornering. If you hold the accelerator at 90% the car just coasts. Normally you coast a car with minimal throttle. Again with the clutch, it shouldn't be grinding if you've pushed the pedal 95% of the way.
Possibly - I know the pedal settings hardly make an impact. I'm hoping they can fix this so that I don't have to give 100% clutch input to avoid grinding gears, and I'd prefer proper accelerator pedal sensitivity for improved car control and cornering. If you hold the accelerator at 90% the car just coasts. Normally you coast a car with minimal throttle. Again with the clutch, it shouldn't be grinding if you've pushed the pedal 95% of the way.
Hello, I was having the same issue Lol. It was kinda annoying so I immediately went ahead and checked the clutch settings. First of all, I put the clutch linearity all the way to the right. Then below at the wheel settings there is a graph and settings for clutch. For the sensitivity I put all to the right, for the deadzone I put almost 50,but you can put 0 if you so desire, I rest my left foot on clutch so ya.. . Then for "highest" put it all to the left.
The highest in wheel control settings actually represent the value input of that the games will receive overall. It's like a saturation to the levels of pressure the game receive from you input device. So in this case if you put highest all to the left the clutch will activate with less input pressure. So let's say with all its value you need 100 pressure with the least value you'll need to press about 60% of clutch and it'll activate. That helps with that :). Saves me a ton
As the problem with wheelspin, we it's not so much but there is some cars that kinda have a little too much. One also has to acknowledge that some cars like pagani and really exotic cars come with traction control on real life and hardly be able to deactivate. In game if you don't play with traction then you really should know how to those high acceleration beasts. No so much on the rest of the cars tho.
Hello, I was having the same issue Lol. It was kinda annoying so I immediately went ahead and checked the clutch settings. First of all, I put the clutch linearity all the way to the right. Then below at the wheel settings there is a graph and settings for clutch. For the sensitivity I put all to the right, for the deadzone I put almost 50,but you can put 0 if you so desire, I rest my left foot on clutch so ya.. . Then for "highest" put it all to the left.
The highest in wheel control settings actually represent the value input of that the games will receive overall. It's like a saturation to the levels of pressure the game receive from you input device. So in this case if you put highest all to the left the clutch will activate with less input pressure. So let's say with all its value you need 100 pressure with the least value you'll need to press about 60% of clutch and it'll activate. That helps with that :). Saves me a ton
As the problem with wheelspin, we it's not so much but there is some cars that kinda have a little too much. One also has to acknowledge that some cars like pagani and really exotic cars come with traction control on real life and hardly be able to deactivate. In game if you don't play with traction then you really should know how to those high acceleration beasts. No so much on the rest of the cars tho.
I love cruising with my G27. I've had this for a while, and I'm glad they put 900 degree steering in, it was just at 540 for the beta, which I didn't actually mind as that was the same as WRC cars.
I know I might be asking a lot here, but have you guys come to good settings for your wheels you feel like sharing with everyone? I want to perhaps edit the OP with good settings for the different popular wheels so users get to find them easier
thanks!
thanks!
have you guys come to good settings for your wheels you feel like sharing with everyone?
For G27 the best settings for me are like these:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/964512-Setting-up-a-wheel-(Logitech-G25-G27)-any-suggestions?p=10397451&viewfull=1#post10397451
except in profiler FFB strength at 55, degrees of rotation are at 450.
and a little tweaks in ExtraConfig.xml:
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.0f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
Good control for both asphalt and off-road. FFB is not too strong and helps to feel the car.
I use hardcore mode, but with auto-clutch and paddles for gears (didn`t see benefits from using clutch pedal as it acts like on-off button, and H-shifter has 6 gears while some cars has 7). With this config the most annoying thing is very slow reaction to rapid shifting (like the game ignoring my input: I can press the paddle 5 times and get only 2 gears down), it leads to mis-shifts and changing gear from 6 to R takes forever.
For G27 the best settings for me are like these:
http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/964512-Setting-up-a-wheel-(Logitech-G25-G27)-any-suggestions?p=10397451&viewfull=1#post10397451
except in profiler FFB strength at 55, degrees of rotation are at 450.
and a little tweaks in ExtraConfig.xml:
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.0f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="1.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
Good control for both asphalt and off-road. FFB is not too strong and helps to feel the car.
I use hardcore mode, but with auto-clutch and paddles for gears (didn`t see benefits from using clutch pedal as it acts like on-off button, and H-shifter has 6 gears while some cars has 7). With this config the most annoying thing is very slow reaction to rapid shifting (like the game ignoring my input: I can press the paddle 5 times and get only 2 gears down), it leads to mis-shifts and changing gear from 6 to R takes forever.
very slow reaction to rapid shifting (like the game ignoring my input: I can press the paddle 5 times and get only 2 gears down), it leads to mis-shifts and changing gear from 6 to R takes forever.
i agree, it's kind of annoying you can't skip gears using sequential in this game. i'm used to shifting 3 gears if i click 3 times but now i have to wait for every gearchange.
i agree, it's kind of annoying you can't skip gears using sequential in this game. i'm used to shifting 3 gears if i click 3 times but now i have to wait for every gearchange.
i agree, it's kind of annoying you can't skip gears using sequential in this game. i'm used to shifting 3 gears if i click 3 times but now i have to wait for every gearchange.
that IS kinda annoying :)
but i dont get why this thread is sticky lol
that IS kinda annoying :)
but i dont get why this thread is sticky lol
The jerky feeling in the feed back going from no force to max force was fixed for my by turning the feedback in game all the way up and turning it down some in the logitech profiler. This also got rid of the slop in the middle.
@Turdhat Thanks for your idea. It fixed my problems with inconsistent FFB (one moment it works almost like it should, the next - there's practically none at all). It also helped me to get some feel of surface on highways for P and C cars(I emphasize word "some" here) with my CSWv2+BMWrim.
For other fanatec users: it might be a placebo effect, but turning down onwheel FOR rather than FFB gives me more detailed/informative feedback than vice versus.
My extra config:
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.0f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
In game: all deadzones 0, all linearities max, vibration and ffb max.
On-wheel: dampening and centering off (those are surrogate effects not related to game), SEN 540(i usually do it that low for all arcades, but i suspect it should be even lover), FOR 60(for wheels prior to CSBv2 it most likely will be too low), FFB 100.
Good racing,
fiCaks
@Turdhat Thanks for your idea. It fixed my problems with inconsistent FFB (one moment it works almost like it should, the next - there's practically none at all). It also helped me to get some feel of surface on highways for P and C cars(I emphasize word "some" here) with my CSWv2+BMWrim.
For other fanatec users: it might be a placebo effect, but turning down onwheel FOR rather than FFB gives me more detailed/informative feedback than vice versus.
My extra config:
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.0f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="1"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
In game: all deadzones 0, all linearities max, vibration and ffb max.
On-wheel: dampening and centering off (those are surrogate effects not related to game), SEN 540(i usually do it that low for all arcades, but i suspect it should be even lover), FOR 60(for wheels prior to CSBv2 it most likely will be too low), FFB 100.
Good racing,
fiCaks
Using a G-27 wheel here. After a few adjustments. it does really good...
I have a Logitech Driving Force GT wheel. through testing I determined that the sensitivity is essentially the steering gear ratio. if you go to a city street so you can turn corners from a stop, you will find at maximum value the steering will only go to about the 5:00 position when turning right from a stop. in a typical family car the steering will travel to around the 10:00 position when turning.
I started by using a stock Camaro and turned corners until I got the desired steering travel. that turned out to be -17 clicks from maximum. after getting the sensitivity right you need to adjust the strength. if the strength is too high, the steering jerks when applying feedback. if too loose, it is just loose. when you get the strength just right, everything will smooth out.
when I was testing I found that -3 clicks of strength works for every click of the sensitivity. that works out to -6 clicks (FFB) for every click of sensitivity.
at -19/full, the cars are too loose
at -18/-3, the cars will feel a little loose.
at -17/-6, the cars feel good (my current configuration)
at -16/-9, the cars are a little tight
I have not tested -15/-12 yet
I started by using a stock Camaro and turned corners until I got the desired steering travel. that turned out to be -17 clicks from maximum. after getting the sensitivity right you need to adjust the strength. if the strength is too high, the steering jerks when applying feedback. if too loose, it is just loose. when you get the strength just right, everything will smooth out.
when I was testing I found that -3 clicks of strength works for every click of the sensitivity. that works out to -6 clicks (FFB) for every click of sensitivity.
at -19/full, the cars are too loose
at -18/-3, the cars will feel a little loose.
at -17/-6, the cars feel good (my current configuration)
at -16/-9, the cars are a little tight
I have not tested -15/-12 yet
I have a Logitech Driving Force GT wheel. through testing I determined that the sensitivity is essentially the steering gear ratio. if you go to a city street so you can turn corners from a stop, you will find at maximum value the steering will only go to about the 5:00 position when turning right from a stop. in a typical family car the steering will travel to around the 10:00 position when turning.
I started by using a stock Camaro and turned corners until I got the desired steering travel. that turned out to be -17 clicks from maximum. after getting the sensitivity right you need to adjust the strength. if the strength is too high, the steering jerks when applying feedback. if too loose, it is just loose. when you get the strength just right, everything will smooth out.
when I was testing I found that -3 clicks of strength works for every click of the sensitivity. that works out to -6 clicks (FFB) for every click of sensitivity.
at -19/full, the cars are too loose
at -18/-3, the cars will feel a little loose.
at -17/-6, the cars feel good (my current configuration)
at -16/-9, the cars are a little tight
I have not tested -15/-12 yet
i am new to wheel driving(only got my DFGT week ago)
please explain those -19/full == -17/-6 etc etc
I started by using a stock Camaro and turned corners until I got the desired steering travel. that turned out to be -17 clicks from maximum. after getting the sensitivity right you need to adjust the strength. if the strength is too high, the steering jerks when applying feedback. if too loose, it is just loose. when you get the strength just right, everything will smooth out.
when I was testing I found that -3 clicks of strength works for every click of the sensitivity. that works out to -6 clicks (FFB) for every click of sensitivity.
at -19/full, the cars are too loose
at -18/-3, the cars will feel a little loose.
at -17/-6, the cars feel good (my current configuration)
at -16/-9, the cars are a little tight
I have not tested -15/-12 yet
i am new to wheel driving(only got my DFGT week ago)
please explain those -19/full == -17/-6 etc etc
i am new to wheel driving(only got my DFGT week ago)
please explain those -19/full == -17/-6 etc etc
the first number, - 17 clicks, is the ingame setting for the sensitivity.
the -6 number is the force feedback strength slider.
if you have a DFGT, there is a check box in your Logitech Profiler called "allow application to control settings". it is very important this box be unchecked. leaving it checked will make the wheel revert to 200 degrees of travel. unchecked it will recognize the 900 degrees of input.
please explain those -19/full == -17/-6 etc etc
the first number, - 17 clicks, is the ingame setting for the sensitivity.
the -6 number is the force feedback strength slider.
if you have a DFGT, there is a check box in your Logitech Profiler called "allow application to control settings". it is very important this box be unchecked. leaving it checked will make the wheel revert to 200 degrees of travel. unchecked it will recognize the 900 degrees of input.
ow those are for ingame settings :D
yeah i have that unchecked :) i will post my DFGT setup for other people here soon
EDIT::
Driving Force GT Wheel Setup
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0626997431273.876Tomashen-CA.jpg
Ingame setup
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/069168264046.2422Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0600690698949.019Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0864526738411.814Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0235007045557.487Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0264559747650.955Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0750147640238.697Tomashen-CA.jpg
NOTE : DFGT does NOT have clutch.so those wheels with clutch might want to adjust this setting.
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0248180645284.926Tomashen-CA.jpg
Key Mapping (Persoanl Preference)
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0237827057949.961Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0481158255831.789Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0563709718174.669Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0722746513783.209Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0468165483558.082Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0802045497809.666Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0399393925442.892Tomashen-CA.jpg
If you dont like it then dont look at it. but there are many people who are new to wheels like myself. and after many setups i found what works good with this wheel. give it a try and let me know :)
Natchai if you want sticky this post or whatever . i found these settings(personally) very good... easy steering and overall very nice car handling.
yeah i have that unchecked :) i will post my DFGT setup for other people here soon
EDIT::
Driving Force GT Wheel Setup
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0626997431273.876Tomashen-CA.jpg
Ingame setup
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/069168264046.2422Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0600690698949.019Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0864526738411.814Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0235007045557.487Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0264559747650.955Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0750147640238.697Tomashen-CA.jpg
NOTE : DFGT does NOT have clutch.so those wheels with clutch might want to adjust this setting.
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0248180645284.926Tomashen-CA.jpg
Key Mapping (Persoanl Preference)
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0237827057949.961Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0481158255831.789Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0563709718174.669Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0722746513783.209Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0468165483558.082Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0802045497809.666Tomashen-CA.jpg
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0399393925442.892Tomashen-CA.jpg
If you dont like it then dont look at it. but there are many people who are new to wheels like myself. and after many setups i found what works good with this wheel. give it a try and let me know :)
Natchai if you want sticky this post or whatever . i found these settings(personally) very good... easy steering and overall very nice car handling.
G27, can't drive anymore (for a week or more) due to hand pain after i got through R class. My hand has swelled up (between thubm and forefinger), planning to visit doctor next week. Thats my expirience, even with low low force feedback setup and extra cfg.
p.s. cruising through city or highways are fun enough, offroad in campaign - worst thing ever.
No drag races? - you will birn in hell for this
Speed shifting - works well without clutch on full hardcore settings from the 0 till 6 gear, really? I dont even have to press my clutch when going to start with 1 gear, also i dont have to press clutch if i decided to start my trip from 2-6 gear... Disrespect, i know this is not a simulator game, but this clutch settings with hardcore presset are not even arcade, they are simply dumb.
For now there is only 1 reason to use clutch in this game (on hardcore presset) — if your speed shifting was wrong (you didnt released accelerator pedal) you will hear noise telling you that gear didnt passed.
p.s. cruising through city or highways are fun enough, offroad in campaign - worst thing ever.
No drag races? - you will birn in hell for this
Speed shifting - works well without clutch on full hardcore settings from the 0 till 6 gear, really? I dont even have to press my clutch when going to start with 1 gear, also i dont have to press clutch if i decided to start my trip from 2-6 gear... Disrespect, i know this is not a simulator game, but this clutch settings with hardcore presset are not even arcade, they are simply dumb.
For now there is only 1 reason to use clutch in this game (on hardcore presset) — if your speed shifting was wrong (you didnt released accelerator pedal) you will hear noise telling you that gear didnt passed.
did you try turning FFB off completely ? LOL.. having hand pain you must be silly . my ffb is proper now with settings posted above and every spec is fine. raid is perfect,yes its harsh but do you really expect a real car to drive through such pavements and rocks like through butter :) drive on dirt roads if u want lower pain.
I'm new to Force Feedback, but I just got The Crew on PS4 and am using it with my Thrustmaster T100. At default several things felt great, like hitting the curb or driving off road, but regular turning felt weird. When I turned in one direction it felt like there was absolutely no resistance, until I tried turning the wheel back towards the center. It almost feels like the wheel is pushing in the same direction I'm turning. This resulted in me turning the wheel too fast sometimes and made it harder to control. Furthermore, if I turn the wheel and held down the accelerator, the wheel never returns to the center unless it bumps into something that moves it in that direction. When I turn the FFB all the way off, the wheel has a built in auto centering feature that give a little bit of resistance on turns and automatically brings the wheel back to center when I let go. In the beta there was no FFB compatibility with this wheel so I used it this way for the entire Beta and had excellent control. However, I do want the parts of the feedback I like, while also receiving the resistance on turns from the built in auto centering feature. Right now I have FFB set to 50% which seems to give me a blend of the two styles, but it feels more like a hack and still exhibits some of the issues I had with the default setting as well. I think maybe Ubisoft needs to do more testing on this particular wheel and tweak the default settings. Note that I don't want the wheel to just snap back to center, but it shouldn't stay in the same position if I let go, and I feel like there should be more resistance on turns.
Does anybody else experience this?
btw the only other thing I changed was wheel linearity, which I increased by 3. Do any of the other settings in controls affect wheels?
Does anybody else experience this?
btw the only other thing I changed was wheel linearity, which I increased by 3. Do any of the other settings in controls affect wheels?
edited my post on advanced settings. you can find the original post here (http://forums.ubi.com/showthread.php/965489-Good-wheel-settings-in-here-Wheel-Users-what-s-your-experience?p=10430651&viewfull=1#post10430651) in this topic
hey guys
i have re tweaked my file. here is the result + screen shots of settings.
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="0.95f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.5f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.8f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="5"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
http://p.im9.eu/5144.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/4172.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/2206.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/1676.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/678.jpg
hey guys
i have re tweaked my file. here is the result + screen shots of settings.
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="1.5f"
FFB_LoadFactor="0.95f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.0f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.5f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.0f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.1f"
FFB_CamberOffset="0.8f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.2f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="1.0f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.25f"
FFB_WaitRate="5"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
http://p.im9.eu/5144.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/4172.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/2206.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/1676.jpg
http://p.im9.eu/678.jpg
ow those are for ingame settings :D
yeah i have that unchecked :) i will post my DFGT setup for other people here soon
Can you also post your global devise settings and global profiler settings, to be 100% sure?
Going to try it today, my hands are still painful but looks like i'm able to cruise a little bit :)
btw, maybe my english is too bad, but this 'unchecked' box should disable all this settings on the screnshot.
http://i.imgur.com/LcCgFfk.png
And do you using ExtraConfig.xml?
yeah i have that unchecked :) i will post my DFGT setup for other people here soon
Can you also post your global devise settings and global profiler settings, to be 100% sure?
Going to try it today, my hands are still painful but looks like i'm able to cruise a little bit :)
btw, maybe my english is too bad, but this 'unchecked' box should disable all this settings on the screnshot.
http://i.imgur.com/LcCgFfk.png
And do you using ExtraConfig.xml?
http://tomashenftp.byethost7.com/0183436813531.26Tomashen-CA.jpg
thats what you need :)
forgot to mention , yes i do use the .xml config for ffb posted in this forum.
thats what you need :)
forgot to mention , yes i do use the .xml config for ffb posted in this forum.
did you try turning FFB off completely ? LOL.. having hand pain you must be silly .
talking about 'silly', thats exactly what happened to my wheel if jumping or cruising offroad :)
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1045864595430842
Do you see his gloves? I think there is a reason to have something like that, and car crash is not the only one.
p.s. still pretty painful, i'm too lazy to visit doctor... hope it will cure itself ^^
talking about 'silly', thats exactly what happened to my wheel if jumping or cruising offroad :)
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1045864595430842
Do you see his gloves? I think there is a reason to have something like that, and car crash is not the only one.
p.s. still pretty painful, i'm too lazy to visit doctor... hope it will cure itself ^^
why turn ffb off? thats what we use wheels for . ffb and realism.ffb is fine. at 50% and then ingame adjust to your likings.
ya'll need to visit a place called Gym. ant stop being bones and skin/fat
ya'll need to visit a place called Gym. ant stop being bones and skin/fat
Im using Fanatec CSR and it works perfectly with my extra config settings
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="2.8f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.50f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.2f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.2f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.8f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="0.6f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.70f"
FFB_WaitRate="9"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
<ExtraConfig
FFB_Factor="2.8f"
FFB_LoadFactor="1.0f"
FFB_LoadPower="1.5f"
FFB_LatFactor="1.50f"
FFB_SlipAngleFactor="2.2f"
FFB_CamberFactor="0.2f"
FFB_CamberOffset="2.5f"
FFB_DamperFactor="0.8f"
FFB_DamperMaxRoll="0.6f"
FFB_DamperMaxRollVal="0.1f"
FFB_DamperMaxSlipAngle="0.70f"
FFB_WaitRate="9"
FFB_SpringNoControl="0.25f"
/>
The crew video game is probably the worst thing ever put out. Ubisoft just brought their status down with this game. No publisher is as terrible as EA, but Ubisoft should be ashamed. If you have played this game, you know what I am talking about. The sadest thing is the graphics. Rockstar who's GT5 looks better on the PS3 and Xbox 360 consoles than The Crew on the newer platforms. I will be careful from now on when spending money on games. Especially with EA and now Ubisoft.
The crew video game is probably the worst thing ever put out. Ubisoft just brought their status down with this game. No publisher is as terrible as EA, but Ubisoft should be ashamed. If you have played this game, you know what I am talking about. The sadest thing is the graphics. Rockstar who's GT5 looks better on the PS3 and Xbox 360 consoles than The Crew on the newer platforms. I will be careful from now on when spending money on games. Especially with EA and now Ubisoft.
Feel better?
Feel better?
The crew video game is probably the worst thing ever put out. Ubisoft just brought their status down with this game. No publisher is as terrible as EA, but Ubisoft should be ashamed. If you have played this game, you know what I am talking about. The sadest thing is the graphics. Rockstar who's GT5 looks better on the PS3 and Xbox 360 consoles than The Crew on the newer platforms. I will be careful from now on when spending money on games. Especially with EA and now Ubisoft.
and this is in the wheel settings thread for what reason?
and this is in the wheel settings thread for what reason?
First topic in the "Game Experience" section...
What is really dumb is when people complain about the game's controls without bothering to tweak them. They are there for a reason. Must be dumbed down console gamers I guess..
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Best Racing Wheels: The top wheels for Xbox One, PS4, and PC
Our team of experienced reviewers has tested all the major racing wheels it could find on all the current big e-sports titles to find the best on the market.
If money is no object and you’re looking for a top end wheel that won’t look out of place at an e-sports tournament, the Fanatec CSL Elite is the best overall wheel you can get. If you’re on a budget, or just want a casual wheel for home use the Thrustmaster T150 is the best-value racing wheel around.
How we test racing wheels
We continually check thousands of prices to show you the best deals. If you buy a product through our site we will earn a small commission from the retailer – a sort of automated referral fee – but our reviewers are always kept separate from this process. You can read more about how we make money in our Ethics Policy.
Our expert reviewers test every wheel on all the big e-sports titles, including Project Cars 2, Forza 7 and GT Sport. During performance we gauge build quality, features, usability and performance. We check for the smoothness of the wheel turn, the strength of the force feedback, and the travel of the pedals. Where possible, we test three-pedal setups using compatible gearsticks.
Fanatec CSL Elite
Pros:
- Very powerful force feedback
- Extremely smooth
- Excellent pedal board
- customisation
Cons:
- Plastic base housing
- Non-luxury wheel construction
- Wheel upgrades are expensive
You might not believe it from the price, but the CSL Elite is the most accessible wheel and pedal combination the Fanatec has released since 2009.
At a rather steep £586 (at the time of our full review) for the cheapest wheel and pedals, most people will immediately be priced out of the Fanatec ecosystem. But those looking to step up their sim racing career (and who might possibly have another wheel they can sell when their Fanatec arrives), it’s a very tempting prospect.
It’s the best racing wheel we’ve ever tested, with a smooth, powerful force feedback action, great styling, super-customisable settings and a modular wheel hub that lets you upgrade the wheel without replacing the base. The force feedback is driven by a single belt connected to a brushless motor, which means there’s none of that notchy feel you’d get from a cheaper wheel. It’s also super quiet, although its internal fans will kick up after some use.
Even better, the pedals have customisable feel, with three different brake weight settings available for all strengths and tastes (up to 90kg).
Don’t worry if you don’t have a proper cockpit setup; there’s a desk mount in the box so you can get top-quality sim racing action without having to dedicate an entire room to your new kit.
It’s extremely expensive, but the CSL Elite is the best racing wheel you can buy for under £1,000 and a worthwhile upgrade for any hardcore hobbyist.
Thrustmaster T150
We continually check thousands of prices to show you the best deals. If you buy a product through our site we will earn a small commission from the retailer – a sort of automated referral fee – but our reviewers are always kept separate from this process. You can read more about how we make money in our Ethics Policy.
Pros:
- Good value
- Strong force feedback
- Feels well-made
Cons:
- Low-rent pedals
- Slightly notchy feel to wheel turn
The Thrustmaster T150 is the best affordable “serious” racing wheel. It’s a great wheel for those who want powerful, realistic force feedback but without having to pay a fortune for it. There are no new wheels on the market right now with force feedback that cost less money.
Before we get into how this is a lesser wheel than the T300, let’s tackle the good stuff. It’s sturdy, the force feedback has serious pull to it, and the rubbery wheel coating means it’s very grippy and will stand up to years of abuse. It’s also less notchy-feeling than the Logitech G29.
Now for those reasons why the T150 is cheaper than Thrustmaster’s top wheels. First, the pedals are basic – a two-pedal plastic setup that isn’t as impressive as the wheel. These can be upgraded, however, and there is a version, the Thrustmaster T150 Pro, that comes with a three-pedal board for people who want to use a gear stick.
Second, the wheel isn’t as smooth as the T300. This is because it uses a “gear and belt” transmission system rather than being purely belt driven. Given the price, though, these sacrifices are fairly easy to swallow.
Thrustmaster T-GT
Pros:
- Excellent force feedback, especially with GT Sport
- Great PS4 control mapping
- Quality feel and sturdy construction
- Great pedal set
Cons:
- Stick shift is an expensive extra
- Wheel isn’t full-size
Is Gran Turismo Sport your racer of choice? Then this is the wheel for you. The Thrustmaster T-GT has been designed in conjunction with GT Sport’s developer, Polyphony, to offer addition ‘depth’ feedback for a greater feel of the road. And it works. This is the best racing wheel you can get for Gran Turismo. And it’s pretty decent with other games, too.
The wheel has a beautiful feel, with smooth, grippy leather stitched around it, and the feedback from the dual-belt drive is super-strong. There’s an excellent three-pedal included, with metal arms and adjustable plates. Thrustmaster has thrown in an optional ‘conical brake mod’ that can be screwed in to give a more progressive feel to the brake, which is definitely worth fitting.
The T-GT isn’t cheap – especially if you add the optional gear stick – but it is the best set-up you can get for GT Sport.
Logitech G29/G920
We continually check thousands of prices to show you the best deals. If you buy a product through our site we will earn a small commission from the retailer – a sort of automated referral fee – but our reviewers are always kept separate from this process. You can read more about how we make money in our Ethics Policy.
Pros:
- Leather-topped wheel feels good
- Decent pedals
- Strong force feedback
Cons:
- Turning and feedback feels ‘notchy’
- Very similar to the old G27
For years Logitech’s G-series wheels were our go-to recommendation for driving-game fanatics. The G29 takes what Logitech made with the G25 and G27 and adds PS4 support.
If you see scathing reviews of the Logitech G29 online, they’re more than likely from former fans angry that their old (G25/G27) wheel doesn’t work with current-gen consoles. The wheel itself is as good as ever, however, with strong force feedback, an ultra-reliable motor mechanism and a top-quality, leather-topped wheel.
Of the sub-£200 wheels, the G29 also offers the best bundled pedals; they’re much better than the generic Thrustmaster ones, and you get a clutch pedal.
What holds back the Logitech G29 slightly is the feel of its force feedback, which is “notchy” compared with the more expensive Thrustmaster T300 RS. This is because it uses gears to deliver its force feedback rather than rubber belts.
Still, for the money, it’s one of the best-value complete wheel and pedal sets around.
Thrustmaster T300RS
We continually check thousands of prices to show you the best deals. If you buy a product through our site we will earn a small commission from the retailer – a sort of automated referral fee – but our reviewers are always kept separate from this process. You can read more about how we make money in our Ethics Policy.
Pros:
- Strong force feedback
- Clear PS4 mappings
- Full 1080 degree rotation
Cons:
If you have a decent chunk of money to spend and want the most advanced-feeling wheel around that comes in under £500, our top recommendation is the Thrustmaster T300RS.
Its highlight feature is very smooth and powerful force feedback, giving it a more realistic sensibility than the Logitech G29 or the cheaper Thrustmaster T150. This is all down to the way the motors inside deliver that unmistakable pull against your turns. It uses a brushless, full belt-driven system, which has a much less clunky feel and is relatively quiet.
In the T300RS’s early days there were some concerns about its reliability, stemming from the new belt system. However, it appears that Thrustmaster has largely fixed those issues in later batches.
There are just a couple of reasons why some of you might want to consider the Logitech G29, apart from the most obvious of it being significantly cheaper. First, the rubbery wheel doesn’t feel as luxurious as the leather one that Logitech uses, and the included pedals aren’t great. Although they have metal foot-plates, the rest of the set is plastic.
There’s plenty of scope to upgrade, however. Fall in love with racing wheels and you can add the excellent T3PA metal pedals, a separate gearbox, and even switch the wheel itself for a leather or Alcantara one.
Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
Pros:
- Great force feedback
- Solid build
Cons:
- Basic pedals
- Plastic/rubber wheel outer lacks luxury feel
If you own an Xbox One rather than a PS4, the wheel to look for is the Thrustmaster TX. Ultimately, it’s very similar to the T300RS, but is designed to look like a slightly shrunken Ferrari car wheel. It even has the engine starter button.
The Thrustmaster TX wheel also has all the buttons of an Xbox One pad, but since there’s no D-pad, you’ll want to keep a controller handy while you play. It works with PC too, of course.
With the same excellent force feedback as the Thrustmaster T300RS, the Ferrrari 458 Italia Edition feels quite smooth, and has the power to make controlling your car a satisfying struggle. The one drawback over the T300 series is that the TX has only 900 degrees of rotation, rather than the full 1,080.
As can be the case with the other higher-end Thrustmaster wheels, some of you may end up wanting to upgrade the rubbery wheel and the just-okay two-pedal board. However, it all depends on how serious you want to get; for most, the Thrustmaster TX will be more than sufficient to satisfy.
Those are our top picks of the best racing wheels. If you want to know more about what to look out for when buying a racing wheel then read on.
What is a sim racing wheel?
What separates a “proper” wheel from toys is “force feedback” technology. Powerful motors inside the wheels simulate what you’d feel if driving a real car.
Related: Best Gaming Keyboard
You’ll have to fight the wheel as you take a corner, and feel the split-second that your tires lose grip. The increase in immersion is immense. Not only that, every time you take a kerb, touch another car or nail a corner better than you’ve ever done before: you’ll know all about it.
It’s important to think about which games are actually suited to a racing wheel, however. True arcade racers often feel better with a gamepad with their drifty, larger-than-life handling at odds with a racing wheel. Whereas games with exacting handling models that respond to minute movements benefit from a wheel. On PS4 this means titles such as Project Cars, Dirt Rally and DriveClub. On Xbox One, Forza Motorsport 6, Assetto Corsa and F1 2016 are worth checking out.
PC gamers have some of the above titles to try, plus some even nerdier racing sims from which they can choose – including iRacing and rFactor 2.
Related: Best Gaming Mouse
Thrustmaster and Logitech wheels make up the majority of this roundup, although hardcore race fans may want to check out Fanatec, which produces some terrific wheels, but can easily cost over £1,000. We’ve not ventured that far; our most expensive recommendation comes in at £586.
You have further options, too, if your budget will stretch. SimXperience makes wheels that use a “Direct Drive” force feedback system, where the wheel is connected to the motor without any belts or gears in-between. However, this costs $1,748 without any pedals – out of reach for most of us, then. If you win the lottery, look it up.
Things to consider
First, be sure to check compatibility. While all featured wheels work on PC, you have to choose between Xbox One and PS4 support.
With standard bundles there’s also often a trade-off between the quality of the force feedback and the pedals. Would you rather have stuttery force feedback, or pedals which last a good year or two?
Founded in 2004, Trusted Reviews exists to give our readers thorough, unbiased and independent advice on what to buy. The articles below are written by the TrustedReviews team, which includes many of …
Unlike other sites, we thoroughly review everything we recommend, using industry standard tests to evaluate products. We’ll always tell you what we find. We may get a commission if you buy via our price links. Tell us what you think – email the Editor
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